< Back A Pest Above the Rest – Japanese Beetles Kristina Valle, Master Gardener It’s July and our gardens are in their prime! But wait, what is that insect on my beautiful roses? And why do the leaves on my raspberries look like skeletons? Read this article about the dreaded Japanese Beetle and what you can do to minimize the damage they cause. I moved back to Minnesota in the fall of 2018; I had not lived here since I was 6 years old. I was excited to be closer to family and to finally, put down some roots. My husband I had built a house and, over the winter, dreamed about how we would fill our blank landscape in the spring. In early May, I began shopping around at local nurseries and was drawn to and purchased a few flowering crabapple trees. I spent the rest of the month filling in the garden and by June, I was able to sit back and enjoy a complete yard. In early July, it was time to weed the garden. As I worked along the base of one of my crabapple trees, I bumped the trunk, which dislodged several bugs that I’d never seen before. Under closer examination, I realized that my crabapple had been taken over by these bugs. The Japanese Beetles had found my tree and were heavily at work, eating the once beautiful leaves. Japanese Beetles are an invasive species that feed on the leaves, flowers and fruits of approximately 300 different types of plants. They are around one-half inch long and have a metallic green head and thorax with copper-brown wing covers. Like all pests, Japanese Beetles find some plants more attractive than others. Some of the more susceptible plants include: Crab Apple Roses Grapes Linden Cherry Plum Apple Birch Elm Raspberry Currant Basil Virginia Creeper Hollyhock Marigold Corn Silks Soybean Adult Japanese Beetles typically arrive in our gardens at the end of June or early July and continue to feed on leaves through the month of August. While the beetles feed, they emit a specific odor that attracts more beetles to the plant or tree. The damage caused by the beetles varies but the pattern remains the same. Japanese Beetles “skeletonize” the leaves which means that they feed on the plant tissue between the veins, creating a lace appearance. An established, healthy plant can withstand heavy feeding with only cosmetic damage done to the leaves, while younger, unhealthy plants may experience restricted growth or possibly death if the feeding is significant. During this time, the beetles are also mating. Females will burrow a few inches into the soil, several times during the summer, to lay a total of approximately 60 eggs over the season. The eggs hatch about 2 weeks later and begin to feed on the roots of grass. Dryer soil conditions can help make the soil less favorable and may reduce the amount of new Japanese Beetles the following year. As temperatures begin to cool, the grubs burrow deeper into the soil to overwinter until the following spring. As temperatures rise, the grubs move closer to the surface of the soil and feed on the grass roots until they reach their adult phase. There are many ways that we can minimize the damage caused to our plants by Japanese Beetles. Here are some control options: Netting You can cover smaller plants with cheese cloth or other fine netting to prevent access to the leaves. This will allow light and rain to filter through without exposing the leaves to the pest Manual Hand picking or shaking Japanese Beetles off the plants into a bucket of soapy water. While laborious, this is effective, especially if done in the early morning or in the evening when the beetles are sluggish. Chemical If you visit your local nursery, you will find a variety of chemical options that are designed to minimize the presence of Japanese Beetles. Remember to read the label – it’s the law! Follow best practices: Do not spray the plant on a windy day Wear long sleeves, pants, protective eye wear and gloves Wear a face mask to prevent inhalation Ensure that the chemical will not harm beneficial insects in your garden Traps Commercial traps are readily available in many stores; however, this method is not recommended or effective. Traps may attract more beetles than are actually caught. Traps put other plants at risk that the beetles may have avoided in the past. Plant Selection Consider adding plants to your garden that are not attractive to Japanese Beetles: Boxwood Clematis Chrysanthemum Conifers (e.g., arborvitae, spruce, fir, pine) Daylily Geranium Gingko Japanese Tree Lilac Forsythia Common Lilac Magnolia Red and Silver Maple Oak White Poplar Redbud Rhododendron Yew My first summer back in Minnesota left me with a lot of frustration, and I spent some of the winter months trying to understand how to prevent these pests from entering my garden in the upcoming spring. I learned a lot, but mostly, acceptance. As gardeners, pests, whether welcome or not, are part of the package, part of the experience that makes what we do always challenging, always an adventure. References: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/japanese-beetles#non-chemical-management-options-1591111 https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/dont-fall-japanese-beetle-trapping-trap Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (1, 2, 3, 4)

< Back Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum) Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener Jack-in-the-Pulpit is a shade requiring native plant best grown in rich, moist woods or marshes. Read about this unique and fascinating long-lived perennial here. It takes a special kind of plant to survive near our marsh. The ground ranges from damp to soggy, the shade is at best partial but mostly deep once you step a foot or two into the surrounding woods. Yet it is in this challenging environment that Jack in the Pulpit is most content. This unusual but long-lived native perennial is found in moist woodlands throughout most of the eastern half of the United States. It is prevalent throughout Minnesota and most of the Upper Midwest, hardy up through Zone 3. The flower is 3 to 4 inches tall and about 2 inches across. It is made up of a 2- to 3-inch-long club (the “Jack”, or spadix) sitting in a tubular base with a hood (the “pulpit”, or spathe). The spadix is light to reddish green. The spathe is light to purplish green and often dotted with white or purplish stripes. Plants are either male or female but you can’t tell without peering into the “pulpit”. It is there that either the staminate (female) or pistillate (male) organs are to be found. Speaking of gender, Jack in the Pulpit is rather fluid in that department. A given plant can change sex from year to year. Apparently, this is a function of how successful they were or were not in pollinating during the previous season. Once the plant decides if he/she is to be a boy or girl for the season its structure differentiates accordingly. Males tend to be smaller than females. They sprout from an underground corm which can send out runners producing additional plants. Consequently, Jack-in-the-Pulpits are usually found in colonies with a tall female plant surrounded by smaller male plants. The male plant has a hole in the bottom of its spathe (“pulpit”) which provides an easy exit for pollinating insects, usually small flies or gnats. In contrast, females have no such exit in their spathe, forcing a would-be pollinator to squirm around a bit to get out. This increases the likelihood of pollen being deposited on the staminate structures within the spathe. Pretty clever interior design! Jack in the Pulpit can be grown from seed but it takes four to five years before the plant flowers. So, if you are thinking of planting some, you might consider buying a corm instead of seed. Once mature, the female plant produces flowers in late spring to early summer. When fertilized smooth green berries are produced. In late summer they ripen to a deep red as the leaves wither. These berries are about a quarter inch in diameter appearing in ovoid shaped clusters which can be up to 2 inches long. Each berry contains one to seven small seeds. These prove tempting to many woodland birds, including wild turkeys, who eat the ripe berries and excrete the seeds. So, if you have a moist shaded spot in your garden and are looking for a suitable native perennial, the unusual but showy Jack in the Pulpit may just be your guy. Photo credits: Flickr.com (1, 2)

< Back 2 Easy Ways to Savor Spring Produce Joy Johnson, Master Gardener If you subscribe to the notion and practice of seasonal eating, as I do, then you already know: nothing in the world tastes as good as freshly picked asparagus. There is no replicating the bold bite of a turnip just plucked from the dirt. Spring is a wonderful time to eat, and its abundant leaves, stalks, bulbs and shoots in peak season and at their most flavorful require very little fussing in the kitchen. It’s early spring and you may have some early spring veggies coming up in your garden; or, like me, you may still be in the “hopeful” stage. If you are blessed to have an asparagus patch or if you froze some turnips or have some in cold storage, it’s time to enjoy them! If you don’t have either of these on hand, they are readily available this time of year in your local grocery store, probably at a reasonable price because they are in season. These recipes, if you can even call them that, are very simple and quick. I hope you enjoy the fresh new flavors as much as I did when prepping for this article. Hakurei Turnips Make a salty-sweet glaze: Trim and cut turnips to bit size, then boil in salted water until just tender, 5 minutes. Drain and return to pot along with a couple tablespoons each honey and butter, and 1 tablespoon each of miso and vinegar. I used one pack of red miso soup mixed with 1 tablespoon water. Cook until the glaze thickens enough to coat the turnips. Season with salt and pepper. Asparagus Blanch trimmed asparagus in salted simmering water until just tender, about 6 minutes. Toss with a grainy mustard vinagrette (i.e. mix 1 tablespoon brown mustard into 1/3 cup of whatever bottled vinagrette dressing you have on hand). Force a peeled hard boiled egg through a sieve or potato ricer to garnish. Photo Credit: Joy Johnson (1,2,3,4)

< Back Master Gardener Seed Trials – Choose the Best Varieties Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener It’s March and you may be thinking about starting vegetable or flower seeds for your garden this summer. First, you have to decide what to grow - beans, basil, zinnias, tomatoes? But there are several different varieties of each of these plants. So, how do you know what variety to plant? You can look through the seed catalogs or go to the garden store and peruse the many different varieties on the racks. Confused? The University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardeners can help. The UMN Extension sponsors Annual Master Gardener Seed Trials to find the best varieties of various vegetables and flowers. In 2023, 235 Master Gardeners from 51 counties, participated in the Seed Trials. Seed Trial participants test 6 different varieties of 8 different plants against each other (6 vegetables and two flower varieties; including one herb). The collective results of the trials are compiled at the end of each growing season and each plant is ranked. Winners are the top performers in each trial. The rankings are published each year by March – in time to help you, the home gardener, learn about and obtain the most highly ranked plants to grow in your garden – or to purchase when harvested. This will be the 42 nd year of the Seed Trials’ existence, so there is ample data on many varieties to inform the home gardener. In Dakota County, Master Gardeners manage two Seed Trial Gardens; one in the First Presbyterian Church Community Garden, South St. Paul and one at St. Joseph’s Church in Rosemount. Some individual Master Gardeners also participate by testing plants in their own gardens. Two Dakota County Master Gardeners – Marc Battistini and Janice Gestner – are among the group at UMN Extension who select which plants will be part of the trials. Master Gardeners receive the seeds from the UMN Extension and grow the plants from seed. The plants are planted in the ground or transferred to the gardens in the spring according to planting instructions. Teams of Master Gardeners prepare the soil, plant the seeds or seedlings, water, weed, and monitor diseases and insects on the plants over the summer. Taste tests are performed when the plants are ready for harvest. Data is kept throughout the summer on each plant variety regarding: flavor, disease and insect tolerance, productivity and germination rate. At the end of the growing season, the data is given to the UMN Extension, which compiles the statewide data and produces the annual report. Dakota County Master Gardeners who work the gardens also provide horticultural education to community members. Produce is donated to a local food shelf. Complete results of the trials are available here . In 2023, the top ranked plants in each category were: Paste Tomatoes – Cipolla’s Pride; Green Pole Beans – Seychelles; Red Carrots – Malbec; Mustard Greens – Mizuna; Small Watermelon – Mini Love; Purple Basil – Amethyst Improved; Melampodium – Derby; and Pink Cleome – Mauve Queen . You can find a complete list of all of the seed trials since 1982 at the same site. In 2024, Master Gardeners will be testing 6 varieties of Swiss chard, Asian long beans, stem broccoli, cilantro, shallots, snacking peppers, helichrysum (strawflowers) and centaurea (bachelor buttons). Look for the results of those trials in winter 2025. Dakota County Master Gardeners also test plants for the PanAmerican Seed Company. These plants include annual flower varieties and some vegetables. Typically, the seeds grown in these trials are plants that PanAmerican is testing in various test trials around the country to help them decide which plants can be successfully grown and marketed. Data on these plants is compiled periodically over the summer and a report is sent to PanAmerican at the end of the growing season. Currently, the primary trial garden is located in Rosemount. Volunteer Master Gardeners around the state, including Dakota County, participate in various projects which improve horticulture and provide gardening information that will be useful to the home gardener. The vegetable and flower trials are one of these projects. Hopefully, you can use this information to grow happy, healthy vegetables (or flowers) for your enjoyment. Photo Credits: Photo 1 – University of Minnesota Extension; Susan Hickey Photo 2 – Robert Hatlevig Photo 3 – Robert Hatlevig Photo 4 – Robert Hatlevig Photo 5 – Jean Chrysler Photo 6 – Jean Chrysler

< Back Tomato Problems Homegrown tomatoes are the highlight of a summer garden. In this article you will learn some very helpful tips to achieve the best possible harvest. Janice Gestner, Master Gardener Tomatoes (Solanium lycopersicum) are among the most commonly grown vegetables by gardeners. The joy of using vitamin-rich, low-calorie tomatoes in fresh summer salads, in sauces, and many more ways make it one of the most versatile vegetables grown. The easiest way to avoid tomato problems is by giving them the site, space, and conditions they want as a plant that originated in South America. Tomatoes along with its Nightshade family members, including eggplants and peppers, love the sun-filled days with temperatures between 65°F and 95°F. They love well-drained, fertile soil, pH numbers between 5.5-7, mulches to regulate soil temperatures and moisture, and plenty of space. Cages, stakes and careful pruning help keep plants clean and less prone to disease. Consistent watering until tomatoes are ripening is also important to overall plant health. Gardeners who carefully follow all of the growing tips for tomato plants will avoid many of the disease and insect issues that can be problems for tender tomato plants. However, sometimes climate conditions, gardening errors, insects and other problems happen. The University of Minnesota Extension site titled “Tomato Disorders” at https://extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/tomato-disorders provides information about possible disorders. A summary of the information found on this site includes the following: Disorders may be caused by varietal choices. If gardeners have provided good management, trying different tomatoes varieties might be the best answer for the location. Seed catalogs can give information on disease resistant varieties. Blossom-end rot is an issue where fruit has a tan/black flattened spot on the end of the fruit. This is usually caused by inconsistent watering or possibly too heavy rains. The plant has a calcium deficiency that is not usually caused by soil deficiency but the inability for the plant to take up calcium through the roots. Gardeners should remove all tomatoes with the disorder because they will never develop correctly. New fruit coming on the tomato plant may be okay if watering is carefully controlled. Blossom end rot Sunscald can be seen on tomatoes that have a pale yellow or white side surface. It is caused by too much sun, the result of leaf loss due to over-pruning, insect damage or disease damage. The spots can be an entry point for decay, and tomatoes should be picked immediately since they will not develop properly. Continue to harvest developing tomatoes. Sun scald Early blight is caused by either of two pathogens called Alternaria tomatophila and Alternaria solani . They attack the plant either by being blown in on the wind, splash up from contaminated soil, humidity, wet weather, or even from human contact. They usually start at brown spots on the lower part of the plant. Safe practices to avoid the contamination include watering low to the ground and adding mulch around the plants to avoid soil splash up. Prune away any leaves on the low part of the plant that you see with brown spots. It is okay to remove up to a third of the bottom leaves if necessary. Be sure to wash your hands and clippers to avoid passing the fungus on to other plants. Early blight Growth cracks circling the stems on tomatoes may happen because of fast growth. Heavy rains and high temperatures can also cause these cracks. Regulating watering is the best way to try to avoid the condition. Tomatoes can be used if you cut off the cracking area and use the rest of the tomato. Growth cracks Healthy tomato plants depend upon us to provide the best growing conditions we can provide as described above. Remember to rotate tomato crops to other sunny sections of the garden to avoid leftover pathogen and tomato problems from past years. Last, sometimes gardeners do everything correctly, but weather conditions may still control the harvest outcome. There is always a new year to try again. Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3,4,5)

< Back Wild Rice - Our State Grain What looks like rice, cooks like rice, and is named like rice, but isn’t actually rice? It’s our Minnesota state grain: wild rice. Click here to find out more about this culturally important Minnesota symbol. Lisa Olson, Master Gardener Wild rice, or manoomin, translated to “good berry”, as the Ojibwe people call it, is not really a rice at all. It is actually an annual aquatic grass native to Minnesota. It officially became the state grain of Minnesota on May 27, 1977. This article will touch on the history, some interesting facts, and attempt to portray the incredible significance of this “food that grows on water.” Wild rice has been a source of food for humans, fish, and waterfowl for thousands of years. Through excavation, it has been found in layers of earth dating back 12,000 years. At one time, it was documented to grow in 45 of Minnesota’s 87 counties. While it grows beyond the borders of our state, Minnesota has more acres of natural wild rice than any other state. Additionally, our state harvests between 4 and 10 million pounds of cultivated “wild” rice each year. Another large producer of cultivated wild rice is California. A ‘white rice” farmer tried growing it after receiving seeds from a Minnesota friend in the early 70’s. Historically, natural wild rice grows on its own, reseeding every year in a delicate ecosystem that is difficult to replicate - in case you want to try growing it on your own. Ideal conditions are waters that are 1 to 3 feet deep with a slight current, that isn’t so strong that it uproots the plants, and has a soft organic bottom. It grows 3 to 9 feet tall and is sensitive to fluctuations in water depth. Other water vegetation such as water lilies, water shield, and pickerel weed sometimes compete with wild rice and may limit production. The plants are wind-pollinated with both male and female flowers growing on the same stalk. Typically, in late August into September, the seeds ripen at various times so that harvesting can be repeated more than once in the same area. Seeds that fall back into the water will form new plants over the following year or two. Traditionally, the harvest is done with two people in a canoe. One is the “poler,” guiding the canoe through the rice beds with a forked pole constantly looking ahead for plants heavy with mature seeds. The other person is the “knocker.” Using two carved cedar sticks about 30 inches long, the knocker gently pulls the stalks over the canoe with one stick and then tap-taps the stalks rhythmically causing the mature seeds to fall into the canoe. Some Native people recite “miigwech!” or “thank you” with each repetition of the process to thank the Creator for the nutritious food that lasted and sustained their ancestors through long winters. Next, the grain is dried, then parched or roasted, and finally the chaff is removed. In contrast to natural wild rice, the University of Minnesota began studying wild rice production back in the 1950’s. By 1973, the University had established a wild rice research program which helped lead to the growth of Minnesota’s commercial wild rice industry. According to the Minnesota Secretary of State, there are about 20,000 acres of commercially farmed wild rice in Minnesota. The harvesting process is very different compared to natural wild rice harvests. Instead, it is grown as a farm crop, where rice paddies are drained when the seeds are mature, and combines are used to harvest the crop. Most of the wild rice in grocery stores is cultivated. To try natural wild rice, make sure the package does not say “cultivated” on it. An obvious difference is that due to the more labor intensive harvest methods, natural wild rice is more expensive to purchase, but some people also notice differences in how it cooks and tastes compared to commercially grown wild rice. If you are interested in harvesting wild rice yourself, there are some strict guidelines set by the Minnesota DNR. You must purchase a license, harvest only during restricted harvest periods in approved areas and use only traditional methods with no mechanized tools. All of the regulations can be found here . Failure to follow the regulations can result in a fine up to $1000 and/or 90 days in jail. Studies at the University of Minnesota have found wild rice has antioxidant properties and phytochemicals to boost immune systems. Wild rice is low in fat, but high in fiber and protein, and gluten free. One cup of cooked wild rice is only 166 calories, yet provides 6.5 grams of protein. It is also rich in folic acid, niacin, potassium, zinc and several B vitamins. Here are some wild rice fun or interesting facts: It is said that wild rice can be popped like popcorn, but that is only partially true. It can be popped, but don’t expect the results to be like popcorn. The kernels “pop” but are probably more suited to garnish on a salad rather than a snack to have during movie night! Lumberjacks used to eat wild rice with milk and honey for breakfast. Wild rice is the only cereal grain native to North America. Finally, like all living things in our fragile ecosystem, climate change, water quality, development and construction threaten the future of wild rice. In order to protect this food, valuable to humans and wildlife, and particularly impactful to Native culture and way of life, the White Earth Nation established the Rights of Manoomin in their tribal law, to protect the future of wild rice. To date, however, no U.S. court has recognized a rights of nature law. Cases are currently ongoing regarding the protection of wild rice. For further reading, these books and websites are recommended by the Andersen Horticultural Library at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, University of Minnesota, For youth: ~The Ojibwa: Wild Rice Gatherers, by Therese DeAngelis. Blue Earth Books, 2003. Discusses the Ojibwa Indians, focusing on their tradition of gathering wild rice. Includes a rice recipe and instructions for making a dream catcher. ~The Sacred Harvest: Ojibway Wild Rice Gathering, by Gordon Regguinti. Lerner Publishing, 1992. 48 p. Glen Jackson, Jr., an eleven-yearold Ojibway Indian in northern Minnesota, goes with his father to harvest wild rice, the sacred food of his people. For adults: ~Our Manoomin, Our Life: The Anishinaabeg Struggle to Protect Wild Rice, by Winona LaDuke and Brian Carlson. White Earth Land Recovery Project, 2003. 24 p. ~Saga of the Grain: A Tribute to Minnesota Cultivated Wild Rice Growers, by Ervin A. Oelke, John Schumacher, and Robin Schreiner. Hobar Publications, 2007. 139 p. ~The Taming of Wild Rice, by Harold Kosbau. Treasure Bay Printing, 2005. 102 p. Wild Rice and the Ojibway People, by Thomas Vennum. Minnesota Historical Society Press. 1988. 357 p. ~Wild Rice, Star of the North: 150 Minnesota Recipes for a Gourmet Grain, by the 1006 Summit Avenue Society. McGraw-Hill, 1986. 188 p. Websites: ~1854 Treaty Authority: Grand Portage, Bois Forte.www.1854treatyauthority.org/wildrice/otherinfo.htm ~Minnesota Cultivated Wild Rice Council. www.mnwildrice.org/ ~Where the Wild Things Grow, by Ed Clark. AgWeb January 11, 2012. www.agweb.com/topproducer/article/where_the_wild_things_grow/ Resources for this article: https://wildrice.umn.edu/ https://top10plantsmn.umn.edu/sites/top10plantsmn.umn.edu/files/2021-07/10plantsresourcelistforkids.pdf https://statesymbolsusa.org/symbol-official-item/minnesota/state-food-agriculture-symbol/wild-rice https://www.revisor.mn.gov/laws/1977/0/Session+Law/Chapter/348/pdf/ https://wildrice.umn.edu/ https://www.mnwildrice.org/cultivated.php http://www.calwildrice.org/california-wild-rice-history.html https://www.1854treatyauthority.org/wild-rice/biology-of-wild-rice.html https://mooselakewildrice.com/about-wild-rice/about-wild-rice https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/regulations/wildrice/index.html#:~:text=Harvesting%20wild%20rice%20is%20open,accompanied%20by%20a%20licensed%20harvester . https://www.sos.state.mn.us/about-minnesota/state-symbols/state-grain-wild-rice/ https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/grass-sedge-rush/wild-rice#:~:text=palustris%20was%20once%20considered%20a,smaller%20spikelets%20 https://www.pca.state.mn.us/air-water-land-climate/protecting-wild-rice-waters#:~:text=In%201973%2C%20Minnesota%20adopted%20a,primarily%20in%20low%20sulfate%20waters.&text=Iron%20in%20sediment%20binds%20to,it%20nontoxic%20to%20wild%20rice . https://whiteearth.com/assets/files/judicial/codes/1855%20Res%20estab%20Rts%20of%20Manoomin%202018%20with%20Resolution.pdf Photo credits: University of Minnesota Wild Rice Research Database (1), Minnesota Wildflowers (2), Lisa Olson (3, 4), All Creative Commons: intercontinentalcry.org (5)

< Back Your Answers to Rain Barrels - To Use or Not to Use You may have considered a rain barrel for your yard but wondered whether it was right for you. Rain barrels have environmental benefits but there are pros and cons to using them in your garden. This article provides some helpful information to help you decide whether to invest in a rain barrel for your garden. Linda Holt, Master Gardener You may have considered a rain barrel for your yard but wondered whether they were right for you. This article explains some of the pros and cons of using rain barrels to provide water to the plants in your garden. You will want to decide whether a rain barrel will fulfill your garden’s specific needs to the extent that will make it worth the expense and upkeep. A few of the Pro’s for using a rain barrel in your yard include: 1. The cost of water is going up and the ability to use municipal sources to water your landscape are becoming more limited. Harvesting rainwater may lower your water bill. 2. Rain barrels are a good way to “maximize environmental value” by reducing run-off into the streets and the pollutants that are picked up along the way that are feeding into our streams, rivers and lakes. 3. The rain water is a great alternative for the ornamental plants in your yard as well as indoor plants. 4. This water source can be utilized any day of the week. 5. Rainwater may contain minerals that are beneficial to plants; However, there are some cons to rain water usage: 1. The water is not safe for drinking nor should it ever touch the edible parts of any plants grown for consumption. The rainfall is collected from a roof / gutter system, the runoff of which may include various “harmful pathogens” resulting from bird fecal matter, rotting leaves, etc. 2. To collect enough water for your purposes you may need multiple rain barrels. 3. Some upkeep is necessary to keep your rain barrel in good shape. Most rain barrels hold around 50-55 gallons of water. In order to determine how much rainwater you can expect from your rain barrel, you must estimate the amount of run off from your particular roof. This requires a thoughtful determination of the square footage of the roof area multiplied by the rainfall in inches and a conversion factor that converts the inches of rainfall to gallons per sq foot. This calculation can be found at: https://extensionpublications.unl.edu/assets/html/g2220/build/g2220.htm Rain barrels can be purchased from various retailers or on-line and come in a variety of shapes and designs. They can also be self-built. There are many DIY rain barrel ideas that can be found on the internet if you prefer to build your own. As mentioned in the above online publication, rain barrels are best dark-colored or opaque as light colored barrels allow sunlight in encouraging algae growth. Rain barrels come complete with a hose guide, overflow tube and screen (to keep critters and debris out) and are relatively easy to install. You will want to position the rain barrel under a drain spout so that the run-off from the roof will flow into the rain barrel. The overflow tube prevents the barrel from overflowing and directs the excess water to a garden bed or base of a tree. You can attach a drain tube to the overflow tube to reach the area of the garden that you wish to receive the water. Cleaning a rain barrel should be done annually in the fall when they are removed and stored away for winter, however, you may need to do it more frequently if they grow algae and get smelly. You should drain the barrel and remove any remaining debris. Scrub the inside of the barrel with a long-handled brush using water and detergent then rinse thoroughly. Including a rain barrel in your landscape may be just the answer to your irrigation concerns. The University of MN extension department has a handy article for you to peruse when giving consideration to this subject. You will find additional information at: https://extension.umn.edu/water-wisely-start-your-own-backyard/rain-barrels Photo credits: University of Minnesota (1, 2)

< Back Here a Pollinator Garden - There a Pollinator Garden – Everywhere a Pollinator Garden - Part 1 Brenda Scheer, Master Gardener Master Gardener Brenda Scheer understands how important pollinator gardens are for the environment and wanted to start this type of garden. But how to start? This article is the first in a series of three in which Brenda describes her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden. (This is the first in a series of three articles by Master Gardener Brenda Scheer describing her experience starting a pollinator garden in her backyard. Follow Brenda’s motivation, planning, lessons and tips to build your own environmentally friendly garden.) Pollinator gardens are popping up everywhere but what are they? Pollinator gardens are designed to support and maintain pollinators by supplying food, both pollen and nectar for pollinators. Ok, so what is a pollinator? Common pollinators include: insects and animals such as bees, wasps, moths, butterflies, birds, flies and small mammals, including bats. Pollinators help carry pollen from the male part of a flower (stamen) to the female part of the same or different flower (stigma). This movement of pollen results in flower fertilization and the production of fruit, vegetables or seeds. Why are pollinators so important? One in three bites of food we eat exist because of pollinators 75% of all flowering plants on earth are pollinated by insects and animals Pollinator plants help to clean our air supply, provide oxygen, prevent soil erosion and support wildlife G iven the importance of pollinators and the challenges they are facing I decided I needed to do what I could to help them. But where to start? I signed up for a webinar hosted by Scott County for their “Lawns to Legumes” program. One of the topics was pocket pollinator gardens . After this webinar, I’m definitely creating a pollinator garden! And I was ready to get started. Something I recommend is starting your plan earlier rather than later. I started planning in April and some of the native plants I wanted to order were already out of stock! The project manager in me needed a plan. Here are some major steps to creating a new pollinator garden: Determine the physical location and conditions . Full sun is the obvious choice, however, pollinator gardens can also grow in part sun/shade. Also important is how wet or dry the area is. A rain garden can be a pollinator garden for wet areas. Prepare the site . Clear the area of existing plant competition and plan how to water young plants. Choose native plants . Native plants and pollinators go hand in hand. Natives flourish without added pesticides or fertilizers which means less maintenance since they are already well adapted to local conditions. Use nectar - and pollen-rich flowers with a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. Different flowers shapes and colors attract different types of pollinators. To get the most pollinator food per plant, avoid modern hybrids as many of them produce significantly less pollen and nectar to have larger and different colored blossoms. Have a minimum of three plants in bloom early spring through late fall . This ensures food availability for all pollinators as the emerge for the season. Create a planting plan . Place plants based on their mature height, width, bloom time and color of blossoms. Plant in drifts . Groups of three or more flowering plants are easier for pollinators to find than single plants. Avoid landscape fabric and mulch . Placing plants of varying heights close to one another will create a “mat” of plants to block the weeds even better than mulch. Next month I will say more about planning my pollinator garden. Sources: https://www.nps.gov/subjects/pollinators/what-is-a-pollinator.htm https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/pollinator_gardens_can_be_effective_educational_tools https://beelab.umn.edu/help-bees/actions-help-bees/plant-bee-flowers/pollinator-garden https://extension.psu.edu/planting-pollinator-friendly-gardens https://bwsr.state.mn.us/pollinator-toolbox Photo Credit: flickr.com (4) & Brenda Scheer (1,2,3)

< Back The Herbal Kitchen By Kami McBride The Herbal Kitchen by Kamie McBride is a tremendous resource and beautifully written guide to expanding your herbal repertoire. Fifty herbs and spices are discussed with tips for preparing, storing, and using them, and over 250 recipes will have you inspired to add more herbs to your garden (what's one more bed?!) Read the full review to learn more! Reviewed by Kelly Vriezen, Master Gardener Herbs are a gift from nature. We grow them and enjoy their irresistible aromas and beautiful colors in delicious food, and sometimes we use them to support our overall health in other ways. You are probably already aware that ginger and peppermint soothe upset tummies, turmeric helps arthritis, and lavender and chamomile aid relaxation. Fresh basil and oregano can’t be beat for making homemade sauces burst with flavor. In The Herbal Kitchen, by Kamie McBride, you will find a tremendous resource and beautifully written guide to expanding your herbal repertoire. Fifty herbs and spices are discussed with tips for preparing, storing, and using them. Over 250 recipes will have you inspired to add more herbs to your garden (what's one more bed?) Whether you are just starting out on the herbal path or you are already familiar with herbs, there are recipes for everyone. You'll find cordials, salts, refreshing drinks, vinegars, infusions, sprinkles, baths and foot soaks, seasonal meal ideas, and more to inspire you to make herbs part of your daily routine. You will be eager to try new things and discover new ways of experiencing familiar flavors as Ms. McBride discusses what they do to bolster health even when just used to season our food. This book is a great read for anyone who enjoys cooking and wants to expand their knowledge of kitchen spices or add new ways to incorporate great flavor into everyday meals that also promote health. Photo credits: Amazon (1), Amanda Kae/Flickr (2)

< Back The Gardeners Guide to Prairie Plants: Written By Neil Diboll and Hilary Cox Interested in prairie plants for your garden or just to admire? Jim Lakin reviews one of the most indispensable books on the subject – “The Gardeners Guide to Prairie Plants.” The book includes photographs of each species described, along with a general description and listing of significant characteristics. But this book also contains more valuable information. Reviewed By Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardener One might wonder about the need for another guide to prairie plants when so many excellent volumes are in print. Two of the most notable are from the pen of our own Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s Director of Operations, Alan Branhagen. [1] , [2] Yet Diboll and Cox’s, The Gardener’s Guide to Prairie Plants, is unique in its contents and provides a valuable addition to the library of all those interested in and working with native plants of the Midwest. To be sure, the book contains the indispensable “Prairie Species Field Guide” with a plethora of photographs of each species described, along with a general description and listing of significant characteristics. For those of us with extensive woodlands nearby, the inclusion of “Deer Palatability” is greatly appreciated. What makes this volume a uniquely desirable addition to the literature, however, is its copious theoretical and practical information. Chapters devoted to the history and ecology of the prairie, soil variations and their effect on prairie plants and the prairie food web provide valuable background. On a more practical level, the book discusses the mechanics of working with prairie plants. Designing, planting and maintaining prairie gardens is explained. Establishing a prairie meadow and rejuvenating it through a controlled burn are extensively treated. A very interesting chapter discusses propagating prairie plants from seed, a subject with many nuances. Finally, a compendium of valuable tables elaborate plant habitats and characteristics, wildlife attracted, plants for dry, medium and wet soils by bloom time (a valuable resource for our warming Upper Midwest) as well as listings of plants by bloom color and sun/shade preference. In all, Diboll and Cox have given us a powerful resource for the planning, planting and preservation of an increasingly vital component of our threatened ecology —native plants. [1] Branhagen, A., Native Plants of the Midwest, Timber Press, Portland, Oregon, 2016. [2] Branhagen, A., The Midwest Native Plant Primer, Timber Press, Portland, Oregon, 2020. Photo credit: book cover

< Back What to Do with All Those Leaves? Connie Kotke, Master Gardener Did you know that the trees in one acre of forest shed as much as two tons of leaves each fall? Your neighborhood may not have that many trees, but even a little bit of raking is hard on the back . . . and it’s no fun for anyone but the kids who jump in the piles! It doesn’t make sense to bag or compost your leaves. Instead, turn them into a valuable natural resource that delivers organic matter and nutrients to your landscape. Did you know that the trees in one acre of forest shed as much as two tons of leaves each fall? Your neighborhood may not have that many trees, but even a little bit of raking is hard on the back . . .and it’s no fun for anyone but the kids who jump in the piles! It doesn’t make sense to bag or compost your leaves. Instead, turn them into a valuable natural resource that delivers organic matter and nutrients to your landscape. Managing Leaves in Your Yard In a forest, tree leaves and other organics form a natural carpet over the soil surface. This conserves moisture, controls temperatures and prevents the soil from eroding. Over time bacteria, fungi and other natural organisms decompose or compost the leaves to supply plants with a natural, slow-release form of nutrients. Consider capturing these same benefits for your own landscapes. Leaves contain up to 80 percent of the nutrients a tree captures from the soil and air during its growing season! Rather than bagging leaves and placing them at the curb to be hauled to landfills or compost sites, you can: Mow Them A light covering of leaves can be mowed; simply leave the shredded leaves in place on the lawn. This technique is most effective when a mulching mower is used. In fact, when leaf drop is light—or you have only a few small trees in your yard--this technique is the most efficient way to manage leaf accumulation. Use Them For Mulch Leaves can be used as a mulch in vegetable gardens, flower beds and around shrubs and trees. As an option to raking, a lawn mower with a bagging attachment provides a fast and easy way to shred and collect the leaves. Leaves that have been mowed or run through some other type of shredder will decompose faster and are much more likely to remain in place than unshredded leaves. Apply a 3 to 6 inch layer of shredded leaves around the base of trees and shrubs. In annual and perennial flower beds, a 2 to 3 inch mulch of shredded leaves is ideal. Mulches are especially beneficial when used around newly established landscape plants, greatly increasing the likelihood of their survival. You can even begin to establish a no-till vegetable garden in late fall by heaping 8 to 10 inches of leaves on a defined bed area in a sunny spot in your yard. A heavy layer not only keeps weeds from growing, it also keeps the underlying soil moist, greatly reducing the amount of watering you need in the summer. Improve Your Soil Work leaves directly into your garden and flower bed soils now so they decompose by spring. A 6 to 8 inch layer of leaves tilled into heavy, clay soil will improve aeration and drainage. Tilling into a light, sandy soil, will improve capacity to hold water and nutrients. But remember, almost all trees and shrubs are susceptible to one or more leaf spot diseases. Fallen leaves that are diseased can harbor plant pathogens over the winter and reinfect the following growing season. These leaves should be raked up and destroyed before the first snowfall. For more information, check out these University of Minnesota resources: Should I Mulch or Bag My Leaves? - Should I mulch? Or bag my leaves this fall? (umn.edu) Freeze Dried Leaves on Trees - Freeze-dried leaves on trees caused by early cold temperatures | UMN Extension Photo credits: Connie Kotke (1, 2, 3)

Join Us - Become a Master Gardener Volunteer If you have a love of gardening, a desire for learning and are willing to share your knowledge with others, consider becoming a University of Minnesota Master Gardener in Dakota County. Apply Applications for new Master Gardeners are accepted annually August 1 to Oct 1. You can find the online application form on the Become a Master Gardener page. Selection You will be asked to participate in an interview with our selection team and complete a volunteer background check. We may not be able to select all applicants. Internship Those selected begin a year as a University of Minnesota Extension Master Gardener Intern. Interns must complete the Extension Master Gardener Core Course. The course is self-paced including weekly webinars and section quizzes. Instructors are University of Minnesota Extension educators and faculty. Topics include soils, entomology, gardening resources, diagnostics, trees, herbaceous plants, lawn care, plant pathology, and more. The Extension Master Gardener calendar year is January 1 to December 31. During the first year, interns must complete 50 hours of approved volunteer work on educational projects, often with other active Master Gardeners. Through the year interns report their volunteer hours online in the Extension Master Gardener database. All hours must be reported by December 31. Upon successful completion of the internship year, the intern becomes a certified Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteer, receiving a certificate and official badge. For additional details and requirements review Steps to Becoming a Master Gardener . Remaining Certified Once certified, Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers must volunteer a minimum of 25 hours and receive at least 5 hours of approved continuing education each year in order to maintain their certified, active Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteer status. If combining your passion for people and plants sounds appealing, come grow with us! Remember, a formal education in horticulture isn’t necessary. We provide the training and resources to help you teach others. Apply Today