< Back Harvesting and Preserving Herbs Harvest time is such a fun time of the year. There are so many herbs to harvest and preserve for the upcoming winter months. Some share their bounty year after year, like tarragon and oregano, and others, like basil and marjoram, are planted in spring for a fall harvest. Shari Mayer, Master Gardener I’m always playing with herbs in my yard, tucking them into the landscape, my gardens, and containers. Wherever they end up, as fall approaches, my attention turns toward harvesting. I’ll share a couple of harvesting techniques that have worked well for me over the years. Personally, I tend to wait as long as possible before the final harvest. Oftentimes I find myself gathering armfuls of herbs to bring indoors in a race against inclement weather, especially my frost-sensitive herbs. Looking at mountains of plant material all over my kitchen counters and in buckets makes me sometimes wonder what I was thinking way back in the spring! Anyway, here are some techniques that help me prolong the fresh herbs for cooking and make short work of processing. These methods preserve the flavor and essential oils, which is what it’s all about. First, prepping for harvest is important. I don’t like to waste an enormous amount of time washing and drying herbs once they are inside, so I try to use the gift of rain. This washes the majority of dust, dirt and debris from the herbs. It also ensures they are hydrated just prior to harvest. If no rain, then I achieve the same effect with a garden hose. My favorite way to process a lot of herbs is what I refer to as the ‘slurry’ method. I’ll use basil, since it is a perfect example. Basil does not like temps below 50 degrees F, and discolors to an unappetizing brown if cold and wet. This method preserves the color and makes it super simple to use in cooking. The key to a slurry is the ratio of fresh, packed herbs to oil. Use a 4:1 ratio. The process is simple. Two cups packed leaf material and ½ cup oil (my favorite is olive). Do not use woody stems. Using a food processor, start pulsing the leaf material, and slowly add the oil until incorporated. The mixture should be thick and pourable, but not runny. Fill ice cube trays and freeze the mixture. Once frozen, store in freezer bags. I mark the bags with ice cubes that equal 2 cups of herbed cubes. This is the base amount to make one recipe of pesto. If you want to make a pesto, just thaw, and add the remainder of pesto ingredients to it. Otherwise, for cooking, just pop an ice cube or two as needed or desired. The slurry method works well also with water as an oil substitute. Another favorite technique of mine is to make herb bouquets. I just go outside and collect herbs as you would cut flowers, and bring them in and arrange the herbs in vases. If the herb is annual, such as basil, I will cut it right at the ground level and bring the whole plant inside. If it is a perennial, such as tarragon, then just bring in a number of branches. They last for weeks this way, and provide fresh herbs for your cooking well into fall. I find the varied greens of the herbs are as beautiful as flowers. There are so many ways to preserve herbs, but these are a couple of my favorites. Here’s to fall bouquets of green! Photo credits Emily Murphy, “ PassthePistil.com ” (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2, 3, 4)

< Back September - Seed Saving Shari Mayer, Master Gardener Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Read this article for some tips to help make your seed saving productive! Seed saving is a fun and rewarding experience—especially when you see the fruits of your labor the following year! We are approaching harvest time in Minnesota, so now is the perfect time to think about harvesting seeds. Below are some tips to help make your seed saving productive! If you grow to eat the plant, and want to save seed for the next season, make sure you plant extra. Choose to either eat the plant or save the seed, but don’t expect to do both. If the plant you want to save seed from has an ‘F1’ on the label—don’t bother. This is a hybrid plant and you will not get the results you are looking for. Try heirloom varieties instead. Seeds are not created equal. Breeders pick the plant that is most desirable and stands out for a particular trait or traits—the largest, earliest blooming, tastiest, etc., for the next season. Once you have your seeds, go through and separate out the smaller, cracked and/or misshapen seeds. Use the unblemished ‘perfect’ seeds first. Seeds are ready for harvesting once fully ripe—if you pick too early the seed will not germinate. ‘Fully ripe’ for seed harvesting is usually when the plant is almost dead, or the fruit/vegetable is almost to the rotting point, or brown, dry and splitting open. Seeds need to be fully dry before storing for the following year(s). The moisture content needs to be very low, or mold/rotting can occur, spoiling the seed. Storage for seeds should be in breathable envelopes (I use coin envelopes), and kept in a cool dark place. Avoid humidity and damp places. Seeds are viable for a number of years, but it is best to use seed within a year or two of harvesting. There are methods to determine viability for seeds if you have them for longer, but expect the germination rate to drop each year. Self-pollinating plants are great seed saver candidates (think tomatoes, peppers, beans, peas) for beginners. Plants which cross-pollinate are a little trickier to harvest seed from (cucumbers, squash, corn, melons, for example). Extra measures need to be employed to ensure seeds are not contaminated from similar varieties planted too close. Try growing just one variety, or keep similar plants far away to minimize being compromised by wind and/or insect pollination. Seeds from wet, fleshy plants (tomatoes, melons, etc.) are a little more involved than from a seedhead or pod. The seeds are encased in a gooey substance that needs to be removed and thoroughly dried before storing. Just put the seeds in some water and let it rot/ferment for a few days. This helps remove the coating and improves germination. Just rinse and let dry completely and then store as usual. If you would like more information, the book Seed to Seed , by Susan Ashworth, is highly recommended. Happy Harvesting! Photo credits: U of M Extension (1, 3), Natalie Hoidal, U of M Extension (2)

< Back Summer Sweetcorn: Midwest Magic Sweetcorn in the summer, fresh from the field, hot out of the pot. That is a potent memory for any kid lucky enough to grow up in the Midwest. For those of you that are thinking about recapturing some of those childhood memories, there is great news. Modern sweetcorn hybrids are available that make it easier to bring quality corn to the table. To get that delicious ear of memory, however, there are a few things you must do to assure success. Read this article to successfully grow your sweetcorn memories. Jim Lakin MD, Master Gardner First, it’s a good idea to get your soil tested. The University Extension can do that inexpensively ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/ ). Apply phosphorus and potassium as recommended by the test results. Corn grows best in well-drained, organic-rich soil at a pH around 5.8 to 7.0. The soil test can help getting the pH right. Working organic mulch and/or compost into the soil will also increase its richness. If you have any questions, you can contact the University Extension for help ( https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden/contacts-yard-and-garden ). When planting the seeds (kernels) you should sew at least four rows. To produce, the corn must either self or cross-pollinate with a similar variety. If the wind does not blow the pollen from stalk to stalk, blank spots will appear on the ears, where pollination failed. That’s why you want your cornstalks huddled together. Wait until the soil temperature is at least 60o. Plant the kernels about an inch deep 30 to 36 inches apart. It probably is best just to plant one variety of sweetcorn in a small garden. If different strains cross-pollinate the result is usually an ear with poorer flavor and texture. Once the seedlings sprout, you’ll want to keep up the watering. Drought can badly stress the developing ears and greatly reduce quality. About an inch of water a week usually does the trick. You will also want to start hoeing before the weeds get out of hand. When cultivating, use a shallow stroke just below the soil surface. Sweetcorn roots are shallower than field corn so you don’t want to get too vigorous and damage your plants. As the corn gets taller it will tend to shadow out the weeds and make your job easier. The most common corn insect pests are the European corn borer and the corn earworm. If you do find a caterpillar near the tip of the ear as you husk it, don’t be alarmed. They are common. Cut the affected part off and cook the rest. A lot of insect problems can be avoided by delaying planting until the soil has warmed to 60o (usually by mid-May) and using a variety that will mature in less than 80 days. You should harvest your corn when the kernels in the center of the ear are full and “milky” when squeezed. You should watch for this when the silks start to brown and dry. This usually happens about 18 to 24 days after they first appear. Of course, you’ll want to eat as much as you can while it is fresh, but once you‘ve had your fill there are several ways to preserve your harvest. Depending on the variety you can store the ears in the refrigerator for one to seven days before they lose their flavor. If you want to can the corn you must use a pressure canner. If you have the space, freezing is an excellent way to preserve sweetcorn. We have removed the kernels from the cob, boiled and bagged before freezing with great corn, months after August harvest. Photo credits: University of Minnesota Extension (all)

< Back Healthy Lawn Care Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Dakota County Master Gardener Believe it or not, fall is the best time to repair your existing lawn. And, with climate weather changes, it is also a good time to consider what type of lawn you want to have in the future. Sometimes it can be perplexing as to where to begin. If you are interested in lawn care, please read this article. With climate change, doing the same lawn care, may not yield the same results. The first step is to evaluate your existing yard. Evaluate your existing yard status. What type of soil do you have? Through the U of MN Extension, you can get a soil text. See this website for details. https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden Are some areas of your lawn difficult to mow because they are on a slope? Should you consider replacing this part of the lawn into a pollinator garden with some shrubs and/or pollinator flowers or create a no-mow bee lawn? What type of sun do you have on the various areas of your lawn? There are grass seed mixes for Shade, Part-Sun, and Sunny areas. Not all grass seed works for every section of your yard. Many nurseries have various seed mixes available for sale. Prior to spending money on seed, take stock as to what type of sun/shade is in each area and measure the dimensions so you know how much seed to buy. If you are renovating areas of your yard, question why the existing grass did not thrive? Shady areas especially dense shade is hard to maintain grass. Fine fescue grasses work best in shady areas, but if it is really dense, even that may not grow thick. Another option is to create a pathway and plant some native shade plants instead of having a lawn. You can even consider sedges. What areas of your yard get walked on a lot or have damage from pets? The type of grass mix you put down can make a difference for those areas. Critters such as voles and moles can be a lawn culprit. For more info about voles/moles, go to this link. https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/vole-damage Do you have areas of your yard that get excessive salt from the road or driveway? You may need to prep the soil differently in those areas prior to planting or even consider a rain garden bed in those areas. How much work are you interested in doing to maintain your yard? Watering and mowing are a lot of resources. Should you consider a fine fescue grass mix that uses less water and doesn’t need to be mowed as often or potentially a bee lawn? There are lots of things to consider before starting on your lawn renovation. Sometimes it is easier if you take just a section of your yard at a time. It does not need to be done in one season. The U of MN Extension has a Lawn Care Calendar that focuses on what months are best to plant seeds, when to fertilize, and when to lay down seed. See this link for the calendar. As stated early, late August to Early September is the best time to put down new grass seed if you are starting a new area specially. Spring is the second-best time. But if you are wanting to thicken or repair your lawn, putting down seed in late October to November (once it is too cold for grass to germinate) is great for dormant seeding. Preparing the soil for lawn repair. Does your grass have an excessive amount of dead grass called thatch that is killing the grass? If so, it might need to be dethatched before applying new seed. Grass seed has to have contact with the dirt to be successful in germination. Dethatching machines can be rented for large areas. Hand raking works for small repairs. If you have clay soil, sometimes, you need to consider aerating your lawn on a periodic basis (annually or every few years). This can be done by renting a machine that will remove soil plugs from your lawn. Once the lawn has been prepped, laying down seed is the next step. Seeding in late August to September requires consistent watering when the soil is dry (several times a day). Dormant seeding in November does not require watering. The seed will germinate in early Spring. Purchasing sod is another option for new lawns especially but is more expensive and still requires consistent watering in the early stages. There are many things to consider with lawn care maintenance and repair. This website has additional information if you are interested in learning more. Photo Credits: University of Minnesota Extension 1,2,3,4

< Back Gardens of Awe and Folly by Vivian Swift A Traveler’s Guide on the Meaning of Life and Gardens Looking for a book to take you on a journey to gardens for inspiration and beauty? Read on for Linda Holt’s review of Gardens of Awe and Folly by Vivan Swift! Linda Holt For those of us that find meaning in life when getting down on all fours to play in our gardens, Minnesota winters and major surgeries can be equally frustrating and boring. That is where I found myself this past March and April. You remember the winter and the snow that would never end? To top it off, I was laid up with a total knee replacement and confined to a recliner. Never the one to sit still except when reading, I decided to plunge into a book about gardens I may never see and discover what meaning it held for me in the present time and predicament. The Gardens of Awe and Folly was just what I needed to spirit me away from my current circumstances. Nine very different and diverse gardens from Paris to Key West, Marrakech to New Orleans, Long Island to London and Rio De Janeiro to a winter garden in Edinburgh are gorgeously portrayed in soothing watercolors, while her vivid descriptions regal the rich history of each garden and the ones who came to own them. Her summations of each garden include a “gardening tip”. As an example, when she sums up the Paris Garden: Square du Vert-Galant located in the middle of the Seine, she states that “when considering our own gardens in light of this Paris small public garden, our own piece of the earth may not seem so small”. The author gets a bit political when introducing the Australian Pine, a native found on the coastline of the Tasmanian Sea. When in Fort Zach Beach, located in Key West, you can’t help but hear the “rallying cry” of “Save our Pines” at public protests as FL bureaucrats declare them an invasive species. Yet Swift points out many of Florida’s favorite trees interestingly “do not come from FL”. This is only a small fraction of the author’s garden reflections on her travels. But I will leave it to you to enjoy on your bad weather day. As for me, I hugged my afghan closer on that cold March day and watched the growing mound of snow gather outside my window, silently thanking all gardeners everywhere and especially Vivian Swift, for the warmth and beauty of a well told story and its ability to place me on the garden bench in the middle of it all. The following gardening tip for the Rio de Janeiro Garden sums up her work very well (and I cannot say this better than the author herself) so I quote: “No matter how grand or minuscule, every garden has a meaning all its own; but every garden, everywhere, has a common reason for being, in that it was made in homage to this wondrous Earth that has given life to every Eden we’ve ever imagined.” The bit of interesting information that I learned about the Author: Vivian Swift, is that she is neither a gardener nor a grower of indoor plants, yet she wrote and hand painted this wonderful book about Gardens. She calls it a travel memoir, a personal journey to 9 different gardens where she looks at context a bit differently than a gardener may. I thoroughly enjoyed it. I hope you do too. Photo Credit: Gardens of Awe and Folly by Vivian Swift Book Cover (1)

< Back Our State Insect: The Monarch Butterfly By Lisa Olson, Master Gardener The days are getting shorter, the leaves are changing, some days there is a noticeable chill in the air. Time to head south before the snow flies. I’m not talking about Minnesotans who’ve experienced one too many frigid winters, but rather the Minnesota state butterfly, the monarch. Click here to read fascinating facts about the monarch butterfly, renowned for its extraordinary migration. Since March 31, 2000, the monarch butterfly has represented Minnesota as the state butterfly after being promoted by a fourth-grade class at Anderson Elementary School in Mahtomedi, Minnesota. It was a popular choice. Elementary schools in six other states convinced their state legislatures to adopt the monarch as their state butterfly as well. Though monarch butterflies can be seen all over North America, from Canada to Mexico, the eastern monarch butterfly numbers have dropped drastically over the last few decades. In fact, on July 21, 2022, the International Union for Conservation of Nature declared the monarch as endangered, threatened by habitat destruction and climate change. However, the monarch is not protected by the Endangered Species Act (ESA) because the US Fish and Wildlife Service has not yet determined the monarch belongs on the protected list. Most creatures on the ESA list have very localized habitats, whereas the monarch is widespread, making it difficult to enforce protection of its habitat. To understand the range of the monarch, it is important to look at the life cycle of the insect. The Latin name for the monarch butterfly is Danaus plexippus, which literally means sleepy transformation. The monarch undergoes a complete metamorphosis from egg, to larva (caterpillar), then pupa (chrysalis), and finally the adult stage. The egg and caterpillar stages occur only on species of milkweed (genus Asclepias), whereas adults survive on the nectar from a variety of flowering plants. In a single year, there will be 4 to 5 generations of monarchs. A butterfly lays one egg at a time, roughly the size of a pinhead or pencil tip. But throughout their lifespan a female lays an average of 300-500 eggs specifically on milkweed plants so that the caterpillars will emerge directly on their only source of food. During the caterpillar stage, they simply eat, rest, and grow until they form into a chrysalis from which they finally emerge as a butterfly to begin the cycle all over again. The monarch life cycle The transformation from egg to adult takes about a month, and then they live only two to six weeks as adults, where their main focus is laying eggs to build their population throughout the summer. That is until the last generation of the season. This super generation is the group of butterflies that make the long journey all the way to Mexico along with tens of millions of other monarchs. This generation may live up to eight or nine months! Tags or modern sensors have been placed on monarchs to gather data about the amazing journey that takes them from as far north as Canada thousands of miles to their winter home in Mexico, or in California in the case of the western Monarchs. Upon reaching their destination west of Mexico City, they flutter around in the warmth of the sun by day, and at night they huddle together covering entire trees. In the spring, they make the journey north laying eggs on milkweed plants along the way. To experience for yourself the magical sight of millions of monarchs wintering in Mexico, consider traveling with the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum’s curator of endangered plants on Kingdom of Monarchs | Minnesota Landscape Arboretum trip to Mexico in February 2024. In the days ahead, be on the lookout for the last stragglers beginning their long journey south to Mexico. The easiest way to tell the difference between a male and female monarch, is to note the presence of black dots on each of the male’s wings or the lack of dots on the female. Ponder the long road ahead for these magnificent creatures and perhaps how you can help them thrive in the future. Consider creating or enhancing a pollinator habitat in your yard or community. Identify a sunny location, prepare the site for sowing native seeds or installing native plants, plant, and continue to conduct maintenance to provide a healthy habitat. Check out Minnesota Zoo for a list of Minnesota native pollinator favorites. For additional resources for monarch fans of all ages, visit monarch joint venture . Resources for this article: https://ece.engin.umich.edu/stories/tracking-monarch-butterfly-migration-with-the-worlds-smallest-computer https://www.worldatlas.com/articles/us-state-butterflies-and-insects.html#:~:text=The%20Monarch%20Butterfly%20is%20an,the%20friendliness%20of%20the%20states . https://www.iucn.org/press-release/202207/migratory-monarch-butterfly-now-endangered-iucn-red-list#:~:text=Gland%2C%20Switzerland%2C%2021%20July%202022,habitat%20destruction%20and%20climate%20change . https://www.fws.gov/press-release/2020-12/endangered-species-act-listing-monarch-butterfly-warranted-precluded https://www.worldwildlife.org/species/monarch-butterfly#:~:text=The%20monarch%20butterfly%20is%20known,ability%20to%20hibernate%20and%20metamorphize . https://www.revisor.mn.gov/laws/2000/0/306/ https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/insects/monarchbutterfly.html https://arb.umn.edu/kingdom-monarchs https://mnzoo.org/conservation/act-wildlife/plant-pollinators/ https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/pollinators/Monarch_Butterfly/migration/index.shtml https://monarchjointventure.org/about-us/partners Photo credits: Lisa Olson, Master Gardener (1), Monarch Joint Venture https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/life-cycle (2), Monarch Joint Venture https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/life-cycle (3), https://monarchjointventure.org/monarch-biology/vital-statistics-and-measuring (4)

< Back Vexing Vole Damage Julie Harris, Master Gardener As the snow melts this spring, you may observe trails of dead grass in your yard. Or, you may find that the bark near the ground of your small trees or shrubs has been chewed bare. What is the cause of this damage that occurred over the winter? Most likely, the culprit is voles. Read this article learn more about voles and how you can reduce the damage they may bring to your yard. Voles or field mice are small brown rodents about the size and shape of a mouse. There are several species of vole. In Minnesota, the most common species are the meadow vole and the prairie vole. While voles don’t live long (2 – 16 months) they breed abundantly. One female vole can produce 3 – 5 babies, 5 – 10 times a year. They nest a few inches into the ground in small nests or tunnels. Voles generally eat grass and plant bulbs. They feed day and night throughout the year. Evidence of voles is a series of criss-crossing trails in the grass. You might also see patches of dried grass. This may be a storage area for food and nesting materials. Voles also make small holes in the grass to get to bulbs and tubers. Voles can damage or destroy trees and shrubs by gnawing and girdling of the plant. Of course, other animals, such as rabbits, also gnaw on plants in the winter. Vole girdling can be differentiated from girdling by other animals by the non-uniform gnaw marks. They occur at various angles and in irregular patches. Rabbit gnaw marks are larger and not distinct. Rabbits neatly clip branches with slanted, clean cuts. How can you prevent vole damage? You can’t entirely. Voles are so plentiful that you cannot eliminate them completely. However, there are some steps that you can take to reduce the threat. Remove woodpiles and debris that provide a hiding place Keep your grass trimmed short and your bushes trimmed up Remove birdfeeders or keep the ground around them very clean Loosely wrap your trees with a light-colored tree guard up to the top of the snow line It may be possible to trap voles using a standard mouse trap baited with peanut butter; but this only works on small populations It may be possible to use a toxic bait but this should be used only by certified pesticide applicators. Voles are a food source for many animals. However, this doesn’t control the vole population because they reproduce so rapidly. The good news is that voles rarely invade houses. And, while vole damage is annoying, it is generally not permanent. You can rake of the dead grass and reseed the damaged area. References: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/vole-damage#pesticides-1901264 ; authored by Jennifer Menken, Bell Museum of Natural History http://pcwd.info/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/1994Voles.pdf ; authored by John M. O’Brien, Nevada Department of Agriculture Photo Credit: University of Minnesota Extension (1,2,3,4)

Subscribe to The Garden Buzz Don’t miss out on the Garden Buzz, the Dakota County Master Gardener’s monthly newsletter bringing you interesting, timely, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. Look for: Master Gardener events What to do in your garden each month Interesting plants that might add value to your garden Plant diseases, insects, or other problems that you might encounter Garden tips Ideas for sharing the joy of gardening with the children in your lives Recipes, gardening books, and other ways that MGs can help you to have a healthy, happy garden. And more!! Get "The Garden Buzz" First Name Last Name Email Sign Me Up Thank you for subscribing to The Buzz!

Events Every year the Master Gardeners in Dakota County share their knowledge of research-based horticultural and environmental information by hosting classes and events. Most events occur in spring, summer and fall. There’s something for everyone. Let’s Get Growing is an event for home gardeners of all skill levels looking to learn more and have a good time. This event includes classes, keynote speaker, lunch, silent auction and a chance to win door prizes too. Classes are taught by U of M Master Gardeners as well as horticulture professionals. Spring Plant Sale Get beautiful, hardy Minnesota grown plants at a great price and benefit the Master Gardener program of Dakota County too. Classes and Workshops If there is a gardening topic chances are there is a Dakota County Master Gardening speaking about it somewhere. Classes are offered throughout the year at a variety of locations throughout the county. Farmers Markets Friendly Master Gardeners ready to answer your toughest gardening questions can be found at Farmers Markets in Lakeville, Eagan, Burnsville, and Apple Valley. Look for our table at both summer and winter area markets. A complete listing of dates, location and times can be found on our Event Calendar . Community Gardens Master Gardeners participate in comparison vegetable trials and then share their results with you on this website. This year we cooperated in a state-wide trial to look at attractiveness of annual; flowers to various pollinators. Data was collected each week for eight weeks and will be compiled into a report. We are hoping that the information will help gardeners choose flowers that will improve habitat for pollinators.

About Us The mission of the Dakota County Extension Master Gardener program is to educate and assist the public by answering questions and solving problems about horticulture and related environmental topics. There are more than 130 Dakota County residents who are University of Minnesota Extension-trained and volunteer thousands of hours each year. Events & Workshops What We Do Extension Master Gardeners use up-to-date University information to provide education and horticulture resources. Teaching classes to youth and adults Speaking to groups Participating in community events and projects Conducting research Answering gardening questions online and by phone Partnering with other state and county organizations Learn more about the state Master Gardener program or how to become a Dakota County Master Gardener: State-wide Extension Master Gardener Volunteers program Dakota County Extension Master Gardener membership

Request a Speaker Master Gardeners are available to speak to garden clubs, at workplace seminars or other groups about a wide variety of garden-related topics. We have access to the latest university based research, attend educational seminars throughout the year and have personal interest in many aspects of gardening. Here is a list of just some of the topics we are able to present to your group. Don’t see what you are looking for? Contact our Speakers Bureau and we can help. Please remember that our Speaker Bureau program is run by volunteers and we therefore ask for your patience. Please allow 3-5 business days for a reply. Ideally, we ask that you request speakers a minimum of 4-6 weeks before your event although more urgent requests will be considered and fulfilled whenever possible. We appreciate your understanding. Popular Topics Annuals Bee friendly plants Beekeeping Blueberries Container gardening Composting Herbs Houseplants Invasive plants and pests Orchids Putting your gardens to bed Shade gardening Spring bulbs Square foot gardening Seeding starting Vegetables And more!! Request a Speaker First Name Last Name Email Write a message. Please include the location for the presentation. Submit Your request has been sent.

Registration for Let's Get Growing 2025 is open. Friendly Master Gardeners ready to answer your toughest gardening questions can be found at Farmers Markets in Eagan and Apple Valley at 2024-25 winter markets. A complete listing of dates, location and times can be found on our Event Calendar . Gardening Problem or Questions? Garden Information Ask a MG Ask a Master Gardener Extension Yard & Garden Extension Yard & Garden Garden Information 1/3 Upcoming Events View All Events Get the Buzz Don’t miss out on the Garden Buzz, the Dakota County Master Gardener’s monthly newsletter bringing you interesting, timely, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. Monthly gardening tasks Master Gardener events Plant diseases, insects or other garden problems Tips to enhance your garden and the environment; Ideas for sharing the joy of gardening with the children in your lives Recipes, gardening books and much more! Subscribe Now