< Back Building a Pollinator Garden Dan and Cheryl Forrest, Master Gardeners “If the bee disappears from the surface of the earth, man would have no more than four years to live.” This may or may not be a true Albert Einstein quote but the concept is valid. We need bees and all pollinators. Approximately 75% of the world’s flowering plants require a pollinator to reproduce. Pollinators help produce one-third of our food. It’s hard to imagine a diet without many fruits, vegetables, and nuts. Yet, pollinators are at serious risk. You can learn more about this risk at the Bee Lab at the University of Minnesota . But the purpose of this article to focus attention not on the risk, but on what we can do to help. Here are some suggestions. 1. Rethink your lawn! Perfectly manicured grass does nothing for pollinators. Maybe it’s time to let some dandelions and clovers grow in that back corner of your property. These two wildflowers (not necessarily weeds) are prime food sources for pollinators during the late spring and early summer. Stagger mowing so that some of the flowers are in bloom at all times. Take steps to protect the pollinator habitat that exists on your property, especially if this area is out of the way. This could be a bare patch of soil, a dead tree, a rock or brush pile where native pollinators build nests. This is the perfect time to cut down on the amount of grass you have and build a pollinator garden. 2. Design a pollinator garden! First of all, it helps to have sun. The vast majority of pollinator plants are sun-loving. But don’t despair if you have a shady yard; there are shade plants that attract pollinators. A source of water should be available. An old bird bath filled with pebbles and water makes an ideal source of water. A mud bath will attract butterflies as well as bees. Make sure there is a safe distance from any area where you use chemicals. Better yet, avoid chemicals altogether. Although budget limitations might demand that you start small, allow room for expansion. In the world of pollinators, bigger is better. 3. Go native! Avoid highly hybridized plants that are bred to be seedless and thus produce very little pollen and scent. It’s been estimated that native plants are four times more attractive to pollinators than hybrids. Emphasize diversity, not only in variety but also in size, especially plant height. Your goal should be a minimum of 10 different plants; more is better. When you plant, do so in clumps at least 3 feet in diameter. Focus on bright colors. For bees, it’s white, yellow, blue, violet, and purple. Attract hummingbirds with red and orange colors. If you include all these colors, you will attract butterflies also. The shape of the flower is important. Do not include “double” flowers as the pollinators cannot reach the nectar. Single flowers are best. Flowers that provide a natural platform give pollinators a place to land. Flowers that resemble a bull’s-eye provide a nectar guide. This is a region near the center of each petal not seen by humans but visible to the pollinator. Some flowers should have a tubular shape to attract hummingbirds. It is very important to provide nectar and pollen all season-long. Include flowers that bloom continually or stagger bloom times to cover the entire growing season. An excellent source of information regarding plants for bees can be found at the “Bee Squad” at the University of Minnesota. 4. Provide nesting sites! The fourth suggestion is to provide nesting space that provides morning and mid-day sun. Ideally, this should be within three hundred feet of the food sources. Keep in mind that approximately 70% of all native bees are ground-nesters. So, an area of bare soil is mandatory. These bees seldom nest in rich, compact soils so you might have to work some sandy or loamy matter into the soil. The tunnel-nesting bees, approximately 30% of our native species, need old tree stumps, logs, or piles of twigs and branches. Rock piles can also provide nesting areas. Allow this area to remain untouched, especially during the fall and winter months to allow the eggs and larvae to develop. There are man-made nesting solutions. You can find plans on the internet for wooden nesting boxes, stem bundles, butterfly boxes, etc. There are even plans for bumblebee nests. Consider a honeybee hive and learn about their fascinating community lifestyle. 5. Go organic! Finally, we can safeguard beneficial pollinators by going natural or organic. Avoid the use of chemicals, including fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, insecticides or fungicides. Your pollinator garden is a good place to let the garden go wild. If you must use chemicals, please do so in small, limited quantities and at times when the pollinators are resting, as in the late evening. Remember, while you are killing one pest or weed, you are likely killing beneficial pollinators as well. Following these suggestions will not only add beauty to your yard but will help restore the pollinators we need. Our future depends on these pollinators; without them our food source will dwindle Photo credits: Cheryl Forrest (1, 2)

< Back Beware the Majestic Black Walnut Tree Gail Maifeld, Dakota County Master Gardener The black walnut tree is beautiful in the landscape and provides food for wildlife and humans. But the chemical juglone, that is present in all parts of the black walnut tree, provides a cautionary tale for the suburban gardener. Read this article to understand the pros and significant cons of growing a black walnut tree near a garden where you plan to grow flowers or vegetables. On the positive side, black walnut trees have been prized by furniture makers, carpenters, and wood carvers for their beautiful dark grained wood. Their tree nuts make it an excellent variety to plant for wildlife. Squirrels like to bury the tree nuts for later eating. Humans also like to pick the nutmeat out of the green covering and walnuts are a popular not for use in baking muffins, cookies, and bars. The tree is found across the northern United States among other forest trees. Single stands of black walnut trees are usually not found, instead a single tree will tower above other deciduous trees in the forest. The black walnut can grow to 100 feet tall with deep furrowed dark bark and thick branches, which makes it a great shade tree. Leaves have 11-13 leaflets along a toothed spear. The tree likes moist well drained soils along creeks and rivers. But black walnut trees carry a major negative characteristic. The entire tree is toxic. Roots, buds, leaves and nut hulls contain a chemical called juglone toxin . The soil under the tree will have the highest level of juglone due to the accumulation of roots, fallen leaves, hulls and nuts lying on the ground. Collecting this debris is a good sanitation habit but, nonetheless, the highest amount of juglone is in the roots, which run underground. So, what does that mean for the homeowner who has black walnut trees on their property or may want to grow this tree? You must be aware that most grass, shrubs, herbaceous flowers, some trees, and vegetables will not grow near black walnut trees. Vegetables such as asparagus, cabbage, peppers potatoes, rhubarb and tomatoes are sensitive to black walnut tree juglone. Apple trees, blueberry and pear trees are also affected. Azalea, chokeberry, hackberry, hydrangea, lilac, red pine, white pine, Norway spruce, and yew, do not tolerate juglone. However, there are some landscape plants that do tolerate juglone. They include, arborvitae, clematis, crabapple, honeysuckle, most maples, oak, and most viburnum. Flowers that will tolerate the toxic soil are zinnia, Siberian squill, lungwort, bee balm, coral bells and others. Some sources recommend planting 50-80 feet from the tree. The University of Minnesota Extension has a complete list of plants that can be planted near a black walnut tree. The black walnut tree is beautiful in the landscape. But the chemical juglone, that is present in all parts of the black walnut tree, provides a cautionary tale for the suburban gardener. Credits https://extension.umn.edu/managing-woodlands/managing-black-walnut-forests Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (1), Autarmota.blogspot.com (All Creative Commons) (2), www.Marylandbiodiversity.com (All Creative Commons) (3)

< Back Master Gardeners Answer Your Questions One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. This article explains some of the ways that you can have your gardening questions answered by a certified Master Gardener in Dakota County. In particular, at Farmers Markets around the county, you can find MGs at their “Ask a Master Gardener” table, ready to answer your gardening questions. Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the most important services that the Master Gardeners in Dakota County provide to the community, is answering garden and environmental related questions. “Ask a Master Gardener” volunteers can be found at various places but primarily at Farmers Markets around the county. At these events, you can find MGs at their table, ready to answer your gardening questions. Look for the familiar MG sign and table cloth! In order to be certified as a MG, an individual must complete a horticulture course in research-based, best horticultural practices through the University of Minnesota Extension. University faculty provide education on a wide array of horticultural subjects; for example – herbaceous and woody plants; growing vegetables and fruit; weeds; soil; composting; fertilizers; trees; lawn care and others. MGs combine this education with their own experience to provide you with gardening information. If they can’t answer a question on the spot, they will research the answer and get back to you. Additionally the MGs have handouts on relevant topics such as plants for pollinators, native plants, invasives, lawn care, and soil testing. In Dakota County, this project is led by Paul Wood and Rozanne Witter – both very experienced Master Gardeners. However, many other Master Gardeners volunteer their time and knowledge at community events. In fact, last year, MGs volunteered over 300 hours at the markets and answered almost 1100 questions! During the warm months, you can find MGs at these Farmer’s Markets: Apple Valley – Western Dakota County Service Center, 14955 Galaxie Ave Eagan -- Eagan Community Center, 1501 Central Pkwy Burnsville -- Mary, Mother of the Church, 3333 Cliff Rd East Lakeville - 20851 Holyoke Avenue During the winter months, MGs are often available at the Apple Valley Bachman’s and the Eagan Market Fest. For information about where and when Master Gardeners will be at one of these locations, this link will take you to the Dakota County Master Gardeners’ event schedule. An “Ask a Master Gardener” table is also available at our annual May Plant Sale and Let’s Get Growing spring kick-off event and the Burnsville Native Plant Sale. Ask a Master Gardener Line Master Gardeners in Dakota County also participate in the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum “Ask a Master Gardener phone line.” If you have gardening questions when you are not at an MG event, this is a great resource for you. Simply call the phone line (612-301-7590), leave your phone number and as much information as possible. A Master Gardener will get back to you within 24-48 hours. The mission of the Master Gardener program is to provide members of the community, research-based information on best practices in consumer gardening and caring for the environment. The “Ask a Master Gardener” project is a great way for us to connect with you and provide the information that you need! See you soon at a Farmers’ Market near you! Photo Credit: Paul Wood (1,2)

< Back Attracting Monarch and Swallowtail Butterflies to your garden By Kristina Valle, Dakota County Master Gardener One of the sweetest events in a Minnesota June, is the appearance of butterflies in the garden. These delicate creatures are not only astonishingly beautiful but a key link in a healthy environment. In this article, you will learn about the life cycles of two butterfly species - Monarch and Swallowtail; along with what plants to grow to encourage them to take up residence in your garden. One of my favorite times of the year occurs when the butterflies arrive and grace my gardens. When I installed my gardens a few years ago, it was with the intention of attracting Monarchs so that I could teach my daughter (now 9 years old) about this gorgeous butterfly and the importance of supporting our pollinators. This interest continues to strengthen each year as we support generations of Monarchs that move through our gardens and then off into the world. There are two critical elements for attracting butterflies: 1) a host plant and 2) a nectar source. If you share an interest in inviting either Monarchs or Swallowtails to your garden, I will show you how to attract them, support their young and nourish the adults. Monarchs Host Plant The Monarch is very picky when it comes to its choice of a host plant, but for good reason! The one, and only preferred host plant for the Monarch, is Milkweed, and it was chosen due to the milky sap that young Monarch caterpillars ingest, which offers protection against hungry predators looking for a caterpillar snack. One thing that I have noticed is that if you have little sprouts of milkweed that pop up at the edge of your flower bed, you will likely find a good population of eggs under the tiny leaves. The reason Monarchs use the smaller plants at the edge of the garden is because the eggs, while further away from the larger host plant, are also further away from eager predators who monitor the host plant for eggs and caterpillar. So, before you thin out your garden, check under the leaves for eggs! Monarchs will also lay eggs near Butterfly Weed which caterpillars will feast on. Lifecycle Adult Monarchs usually show up in May, scouting the area for nectar sources and for their host plant. Monarchs have 4 generations. The one that shows up in May were born in the prior year, at the end of the season, in August or even September, and have made the great migration back home, from Mexico. ● Eggs take 3-5 days to hatch, depending on temperature. The warmer the weather, the quicker the egg will hatch. ● As the caterpillar grows, it will molt its skin and move into the next instar stage for a total of 5 stages which usually take around 2 weeks to complete. ● At the conclusion of the 5th instar stage, the caterpillar will move to a high location, hang upside down and form a “J” which is known as a pre-pupa stage. The caterpillar will shed its final skin and will encase itself inside a chrysalis where it will slowly develop into a butterfly ● The butterfly will complete its development 8-15 days later, again depending on temperature. ● When the butterfly emerges from its chrysalis it will look small, its wings accordioned up near its center. The butterfly will slowly pump its wings to dry the wings and to start blood flow until the wings are fully expanded. This process takes less than 30 minutes then the butterfly is ready to go find a nectar source and a mate and the cycle starts again. Swallowtails Whenever I spot a Swallowtail Butterfly in my garden, it is a special delight and while in previous years I have focused exclusively on attracting monarchs, I have decided to make a concerted effort to attract Swallowtails which will provide a great reason to swing by my local garden center again! Host Plants To attract Swallowtails to your garden, plant members of the parsley family: ● Parsley ● Dill ● Fennel ● Carrot ● Queens Anne’s Lace ● Golden Alexander ● Common Rue (or others in the Rue Family) Lifecycle Unlike the Monarch, there are only 2 generations of Swallowtails: those active between Mid-May and Mid-June and those active in early September and will overwinter until the next year. ● The eggs take 4 to 9 days to hatch, depending on temperature. The warmer the weather, the quicker the egg will hatch. ● As the caterpillar grows, it will molt its skin and move into the next stage for a total of 4 stages which usually take around 2 weeks to complete. ● Once the caterpillar enters the pupal stage, it will take 9 to 18 days to emerge, unless it is in the generation that overwinters ● The caterpillars that overwinter in their chrysalids can protect themselves from freezing by making glycerol which is like anti-freeze Finally, to attract any pollinator to your gardens, including butterflies, a diverse selection of nectar sources is a must: Common Nectar Sources : ● Milkweed ● Butterfly Weed ● Zinnia ● Coneflowers ● Pye Weed ● Lantana ● Aster ● Goldenrod ● Salvia ● Butterfly Bush ● Bee Balm ● Cosmos ● Phlox ● Blazing Star ● Lavendar ● Black Eyed Susan ● Anise Hyssop To help attract and support future generations of butterflies year over year, set your garden up to have continual blooms throughout the growing season. Older generation butterflies will need your help as the weather cools by having access to late blooming nectar sources as fall approaches. When in doubt, or if your garden is closing shop early, stick some discounted, end-of-season annuals in pots, the butterflies will thank you! Photo credits: Cheryl Schultz, Washington State University; WSU Newsletter (1), www.flickr.com (2), Maryland Department of Natural Resources (3), Alabama Butterfly Atlas; usf.edu (4), Wisconsin Horticulture, Division of Extension (5)

< Back Fall Scavenger Hunt by Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener Come join the adventure of a fall scavenger hunt as a Junior Fall Garden Detective! Teach the child in your life how to detect the arrival of autumn in Minnesota. Read along here for a guide to gathering clues and using some scientific observations in an outdoor search to confirm fall’s arrival. It is time for all Junior Fall Garden Detectives to investigate how we know that fall has returned to our yards and gardens. Let’s find the clues, scientific observations, and evidence your child can collect about fall. Then, participate in a scavenger hunt revealing autumn’s cool air, shorter daylight, and changes in gardens, creatures, and our lives. CLUES As the seasons change from summer to fall, the air temperatures drop and the days get shorter. Look for these clues to determine when the seasons change: ● Air temperatures . The Minnesota average temperatures on September 1 are 77 degrees daytime, 59 degrees nighttime. By November 1, the temperatures have decreased to an average of 50 degrees daytime, 35 degrees nighttime. ● Daylight . From the start of school in early September through the end of September, you may have noticed less daylight each day as you hop on your school bus in the morning until you are playing at the park at the end of the day. Daylight on average decreases by one hour and 15 minutes from August 1 through October 15. The equinox is when the days and nights are said to be equal in length for the entire globe. For the Northern Hemisphere, (the northern half of the world), where Minnesota is located, the fall equinox will be on September 22, 2024, at approximately 7:43 am, kicking off the start of the season. EVIDENCE Some scientific observations, or evidence, of the seasonal changes may include: ● Trees . Trees and bushes are dropping an array of leaves with bright reds, yellows, oranges, and browns. Burning bush (or Euonymus alatus), along with oaks and maple trees create intense red leaves. River birch and yellow poplar trees have showy yellow displays in the fall. ● Plants. Flowers and plants around the yard have lost their blooms and dropped their leaves as their energy returns to their roots below the ground. The final fruits of many plants are ready for harvest, like apples and pumpkins. ● Creatures. The arrival of fall invites the creatures in your yard, or local park, to either migrate to the warmer south or prepare to hunker down for the Minnesota winters by making nests or dens. Birds, like Canadian geese, wood ducks, and the loon, form flocks and fly south. Look up to the autumn sky as the migrating birds fly in a triangular formation to head to warmer locations. Butterflies, like the monarch, partake in a long journey to winter in warm Mexico. You may notice that the butterflies are no longer to be found in the garden. Other animals, insects, and birds remain in Minnesota during the winter by hibernating, or sleeping, in covered areas or under the brush of the colorful fallen leaves and nearby evergreens. Look closely, squirrels are collecting seeds and acorns to save up for their winter meals. SOLVE Now, it’s time for a fun expedition outside in your yard, neighborhood, or local park to search for these clues and evidence of fall and its impact on our daily lives. See the attached printable Junior Fall Detective Scavenger Hunt here for an activity for your child. Read: The Very Hungry Catepillar’s First Fall by Eric Carle, to help the younger child understand the concepts of fall. Buy: https://www.amazon.com/Hungry-Caterpillars-First-World-Carle/dp/0593384768/ref=sr_1_9?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.A2F_T8wwaRnCdivgPFsO5IGQdF9pZTxxKDdCxuOob5ZqKJsb9GrsLZpjRJcRKDZYUNGuHZCHYHX_e8MHQvAJkzW395e8Fx-vGN33AGJElFC0Z90rjHwbxCeAW2LiN9yJ7_WKZFEFEdHzs73L8bOLnimVG-Kyp0ToP86gekzJ3TbV6lm2nXsLTSc9RXsDg8869p7rgyugXEC8AbMsmNIqPx8NLF3aH0GyyaNHQu0G2CV6pzrwh-kBl_hlGAwVcSoWjQ5joGUsi5uXMPuh0mioWjIbNHYFa-O5W8JldhCx2Lo.Yk6T3qxBgI-pxXL1PXwWEEU0LP9Vk1wi_gt3CVSyKPY&dib_tag=se&keywords=Fall+Children%27s+Books&qid=1721076061&sr=8-9 Or go to the Dakota County library and check out the book: ISBN: 9780593384763 Photo Credit: Mary Gadek (1,2,3)

< Back Master Gardeners Are in School – Gardens Julie Harris, Dakota County Master Gardener With School Garden Leaders: Deb Oldenburg, Kate Minor, Mary Barnidge and Patricia McCabe A primary purpose of the volunteer Master Gardener program is to educate the community about environmentally sound gardening practices. There is no better audience hear the lessons of why and how to grow flowers and vegetables than children. The Dakota County Master Gardeners put this concept into practice by participating in four “school gardens.” Read this article explaining where, why and how Master Gardeners are in school – gardens. Look for them in your community! A primary purpose of the volunteer Master Gardener program is to educate the community about environmentally sound gardening practices. There is no better audience to teach the lessons of why and how to grow flowers and vegetables than children. The Dakota County Master Gardeners put this concept into practice by participating in four “school gardens.” In partnership with the schools, Master Gardeners teach children at Community of Saints School, Gideon Pond Elementary School, Pine Bend School Garden and Garlough Environmental Magnet School. While each school garden program and process are somewhat different, in general, the mission of these gardens is to provide school-aged children with engaging education about growing produce. Here are their stories. Community of Saints School Garden, West St. Paul This small school garden is a powerhouse producer for a school in an under-served community. Master Gardeners partner with the school kids in the spring to plant over 25 types of crops including vegetables, fruit, herbs and flowers. Summer program kids from pre-K through 5th grade are provided fun garden education and activities on a variety of [topics including water, weather, pollinators and mini beasts. They learn how to be gardeners and how much work it takes to water, weed and harvest the garden. By the end of the season, we have typically harvested 300+ lbs. of produce which is consumed by students, families and staff. We are currently looking for community partners to help with future projects and maintenance to continue our mission. Garlough Environmental Magnet School Garden, West St. Paul This garden is part of the school's magnet curriculum. It supports projects for different grades. For example, the third grade makes salsa with some of the produce; kinderdergartner/first graders plant and harvest potatoes to make fries. They also grow a Native American “three sisters” garden. Master Gardeners helped to plan and supervise the planting of the garden at the school’s Environmental Explorers’ Fair in May. Students and their families helped to plant the garden along with Master Gardener volunteers. Teachers, staff, parents and students are thrilled with the garden project! Pine Bend School Garden, Inver Grove Heights The Pine Bend School Garden was established in 2018 with a Garden-in-a-Box grant from the Minnesota State Horticultural Society along with a donation from the school's PTSA. The mission of the garden is to create a beautiful, thriving school garden that provides students, teachers, and parents with the opportunity to connect with the natural world, grow and eat fresh produce, and expose them to a hands-on environmental education. There is an after-school garden club available to students in grades 3-5 two days a week in the spring and fall. They receive a short lesson about plants and best gardening practices created and delivered by Master Gardeners. Then they work in the garden planting, maintaining, and harvesting. Parents and students sign up to take care of the garden throughout the summer. The garden is visible and open to all students and the public. The pollinator garden is next to the main entrance and many parents (and neighbors) have commented on how beautiful it is. It is also teeming with bees, butterflies, and birds. The vegetable/fruit garden is in the school courtyard next to the playground. All students walk by the garden to witness the growth and changes. Sometimes signs are created and installed to educate students. Garden club members help lead an all-school assembly in the spring on Earth Day. Produce has been shared with the school in the cafeteria. The garden started small and has grown over the years with the help of in-kinds donations and grants from several community businesses and nonprofits. Gideon Pond Elementary School, Burnsville The Dakota County Master Gardeners have had a long partnership with the Gideon Pond Elementary School in Burnsville. They helped build a garden on school property to provide hands-on education for PreK through 5th grade students about gardening and where their food comes from. Our Master Gardener team teaches the students how to start seeds in the spring, and then how to transfer those seedlings to the garden in early summer. Our garden includes several different types of vegetables, fruits, herbs and flowers. Summer school sessions include a 6-week curriculum (based on the U of MN Children’s Garden in Residence Program) with in-garden instruction on what plants need to thrive, how to deal with the Garden Villains (picking bugs, pulling weeds and deterring rodents/mammals), importance of pollinators and other “garden helper bugs”, purpose of fences, mulch and trellises, sensory evaluation of herbs, plant identification, and garden maintenance and harvesting. This summer we added a class with Early Childhood Family Education (ECFE). Participants include children birth through 5-year olds and their parents. The school is a joy to work with and the students are so excited to learn and participate in the entire gardening experience. It is not uncommon to be greeted by the students with a “Hi Master! Hi Master!” It is a rewarding experience for all involved. Quote from the school liaisons: “Thank you so much! This has been such a fantastic and memorable experience for our (students). We appreciate all that you did to make it fun and educational- not always an easy task.” And thank you to the schools, children and parents for making these gardens a “fantastic and memorable experience” for our Master Gardeners. Photo credits: Deb Oldenburg (1,2), Kate Minor (3,4), Patricia McCabe (5,6), Mary Barnidge (7,8)

< Back Snow Mold! It’s Not About Putting Snow in a Mold As the snow begins to melt, you may start to see a grayish, and sometimes pinkish, circular straw-like, matted patch in your yard, especially near the street where snow was piled up for what may have seemed like decades to some but was only a few months. The spot can also have a “webby” fungus appearance. If you have this phenomenon in your yard, then click on this link to learn about snow mold and what you can do to prevent it from happening again next Spring. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener Snow Mold is a fungus that develops and thrives when early, deep snow covers the ground prior to the ground being frozen. Snow mold can continue to grow once the snow has melted in the Spring as long as the conditions remain wet and cold. There are 2 types of snow mold found in Minnesota: Gray snow mold produces sclerotia which look like dark, hard round bodies on the grass blade. Pink snow mold produces pink-colored spores and fuzzy mycelium. Areas of your lawn that are affected with snow mold will generally take longer to green up in the Spring but usually come back to normal and therefore, is not usually too serious. In a bad weather year, it can, however, kill the grass. If you want to “spring” into Action this Spring: You can choose to break up and spread the larger snow piles around in the affected areas. This will help the snow melt faster and dry out quicker. You can gently rake the area to create a faster drying process and prevent further mold growth. Preparation to avoid snow mold altogether must be done in the Fall with these easy steps: If your yard is prone to snow mold, skip a Fall nitrogen fertilizer which the fungus thrives on. Continue to mow your lawn until the grass stops growing. Cut grass to 2 inches (but not shorter) to prevent the grass from matting and allowing mold to grow. Rake up leaves If you have certain areas in your yard where snow mold is a problem, consider a snow fence to reduce large piles of snow. While snow mold can be a little unsightly in the Spring, a few actions can help alleviate the problem quickly! Source: University of Minnesota Extension: “Snow Mold Prevention Begins in Autumn”, October 20, 2023 Photo Credit: University of MN Extension (1,2)

< Back Discover Delicata Squash? Delicata Squash is favored for its delicate, edible skin. No peeling necessary! This squash is booming in popularity. Here are some growing tips. Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener So what is delicata squash anyway? It is an oblong shaped squash with green or orange lines running from end to end. It is actually classified as a winter squash but has a thin skin (similar to summer squash) that can be eaten. The delicate skin is the basis for its name. Even though it is technically a winter squash, it does not store as well as other winter squash though because of its skin. It is a cultivar of the species called Cucurbita pepo . Other common names for this squash are peanut squash, Bohemian squash, or sweet potato squash. I have to admit that I had never even heard of Delicata Squash until last year when I learned that 228 Master Gardeners from 49 counties across Minnesota conducted seed trials on this plant. Six different varieties were tested. Master gardeners were looking for the best germination rates, how well the seeds grew, which ones tasted best including texture, and insect and disease susceptibility, as well as a few other factors. Click here to learn more about how this particular squash type performed. This squash appears to be growing in popularity since Cornell University’s Plant Breeding department developed a non-hybrid open pollinated variety around twenty years ago which was more mildew disease resistant. Master Gardeners across the state found it was easy to grow. What some of us didn’t know was what to do with it once harvested. Delicata squash is primarily roasted but can also be steamed, sauteed, and microwaved. Some recipes call for the squash to be stuffed with meat or other vegetables. I knew it was becoming popular when Country Living had an article on “31 Ways to Use Delicata Squash for Dinner Tonight” (October 22, 2021) among other websites/magazines. Delicata squash is a good source of dietary fiber and potassium but not as rich in beta-carotene as other winter squashes. However, if you want to try something different, consider growing this product in your garden this year. Sow seed in the garden in late May to early June, or start seeds indoors in late April. Make sure to pick squash before a hard freeze. Check out our Master Gardener videos on growing Delicata Squash: “How, When’s, Where’s,” “Delicata Squash Borer Protection,” “Delicata Squash Borer,” and “ Delicata Squash Harvest.” Sources: https://extension.umn.edu/news/master-gardeners-are-busy-during-winter https://www.countryliving.com/food-drinks/g4686/delicata-squash/ https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/pumpkins-and-winter-squash#choosing-pumpkin-and-winter-squash-varieties-235460 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delicata_squash Photo Credit: Gurney's Seed and Nursery,creative Commons Licenses (1) & Centerstagewellness.com , Flickr Pro (2)

< Back Best Time to Prune Trees Faith Appelquist, Master Gardener Although trees are quite resilient and may be pruned anytime, there are both practical as well as biological reasons to prune or not prune during certain times of the year. Although trees are quite resilient and may be pruned anytime, there are both practical as well as biological reasons to prune or not prune during certain times of the year. If it is between opening up a wound to heat or opening to the cold, opening the wound to the cold is best. Optimally, the perfect window would be past February and into March. The chance of frostbite on the sensitive cambium is less, and the sap is not rising. When certain species are trimmed during the growing season, such as American Elms or Oaks, pheromones (scents) are given off at the wound, attracting insects that can carry fungus on their bodies that can infect these trees. These trees are best pruned in the fall or early spring. Deadwood should be pruned anytime because it is a health and safety issue. Deadwood is food for decay organisms and the quicker it is removed from a tree the sooner it can start closing the wound and preventing the spread of decay. If the tree was planted for its spring flowers, such as magnolia, dogwood, crabapple, you will want to wait until after it has flowered to prune. Otherwise you prune flower buds off and reduce the abundance of flowers that spring. For certain species such as maples and birches, I would trim these in the summer to minimize sap oozing or ‘bleeding’. Pruning during full leaf is fine, but dormant season is probably still best for tree health.

< Back Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea} Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea} Is creeping charlie an unwelcome intruder in your garden? Read this article to find out more about why this plant is so hard to eliminate and, even, how you can appreciate and even live with Creeping Charlie in your garden. Unless you live in New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, or Hawaii, you are probably familiar with creeping charlie. According to the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources , it was brought to the United States as far back as 1672 from Europe to be used both as a source of food and for medicinal reasons. Before the widespread use of hops for making beer, creeping charlie was commonly used for that purpose, thus you may hear it referred to as “ale ivy” among other names, including “ground ivy” or “catsfoot.” A quick internet search will provide an abundance of websites claiming creeping charlie provides relief from a number of ailments from ringing in the ears to constipation to colic to bronchitis, and the list goes on and on. The internet, however, is lacking scientific research to support those claims. One thing that is certain is that creeping charlie is in the mint family. Being in the mint family, some fans of creeping charlie enjoy making tea from its leaves, or using them in salads, or cooking them similar to how spinach is prepared. Rather than harvesting creeping charlie for its flavor profile, it is much more likely that you are not fond of the plant and spend an enormous amount of time and energy trying to eradicate it from your lawn or garden. There are a number of reasons creeping charlie is not welcome in a lawn or garden setting. Like the University of Minnesota Extension tells us, creeping charlie spreads or creeps across the top of the ground via surface roots or runners, called stolons, creating a dense carpet. The University of Michigan tells us that, similar to the runners above ground, creeping charlie has a rhizome root system that spreads horizontally below the ground. It can also spread by seed and even by small scraps of plant material dropped on the ground or left in the soil. It is a master at taking over areas where other plants are unsuccessful, like shady, moist areas, or where soil is compacted and only weeds tend to grow. Once established, it is very adaptable and has no problem creeping its way into sunny locations as well. It crowds out grasses and other desirable native plants. In order to get creeping charlie back under control, it is important to recognize the plant in your yard. According to the University of Michigan , this herbaceous perennial can be recognized by its square-shaped stems, scalloped opposite leaves, and bilaterally symmetric purple flowers that bloom from April to June. You may notice the dense carpet of the leaves that the University of Illinois describes as somewhat kidney-shaped with rounded, toothed margins. Before discussing how to get rid of creeping charlie, it is important to look at cultural control methods for how to prevent it from taking over in the first place; or at least how to create an environment that is not as conducive for its growth. One thing a gardener can do to prevent a creeping charlie takeover is to plant a shade tolerant grass in shady areas instead of a sun-loving Kentucky bluegrass, for example. The University of Wisconsin alternatively recommends foregoing grass in difficult shaded areas and instead planting other shade-loving plants like hostas, pachysandra, or vinca. Once alternative plants are established, newly introduced creeping charlie would have a more difficult time competing. Another cultural method to prevent or hinder the spread of creeping Charlie, would be to alter the growing conditions. Improving drainage or watering less makes the area less desirable for creeping charlie. The University of Minnesota also suggests reducing the amount of shade by trimming shrubs or pruning trees. Mechanical methods of getting rid of creeping charlie include hand-pulling the plants. The University of Michigan reminds us that it will take diligence and patience to remove all of the plants. The most important thing to remember about this method is to get rid of every piece of the plant. Since any little piece left behind can sprout a new plant, it may take multiple seasons to clear out an area. With that in mind, mowing an area of creeping charlie can cause it to spread if the plant is mowed and the clippings are left behind. Remember to bag clippings when mowing an area that is infested with the plant. The Minnesota DNR also recommends setting the mower at a taller setting and fertilizing less to help choke out the creeping charlie. Physical barriers, like edging, are not very effective in stopping the spread of creeping charlie. The stolons above ground and rhizomes below ground are very adept at finding their way over, under, or around barriers. However, if there is an area where you have decided to let creeping charlie live in your yard, a physical barrier will at least slow the spread as long as you are diligent about keeping it contained and removing any plants that make it past the barrier. If none of the previous methods are reasonable or successful in your situation, it is time to consider herbicides, though, as the DNR states, herbicide control is challenging because creeping charlie can reestablish quickly after post-emergence treatment. The University of Minnesota makes the point that the timing of herbicide application makes a difference in its effectiveness. They recommend fall as the best time to apply it when the plant is taking up nutrients from the soil in order to survive winter. Purdue University adds that in the fall a very careful spot application is less likely to affect surrounding garden plants than in the spring when they are more actively growing. The next choice is spring when creeping charlie is actively growing if there are no surrounding plants or if they are shielded from the herbicide. The most effective herbicide against creeping charlie will contain the ingredient triclopyr. Also mentioned are 2,4-D and Dicamba. These are all selective broadleaf herbicides. This means that if you are treating creeping charlie in your lawn rather than in a garden, you do not need to worry about killing your lawn grasses as it will only kill the creeping charlie. Two - three applications per year should be sufficient to keep it under control if instructions are carefully followed, though the University of Wisconsin warns against applying Dicamba more than twice per year. In the past, gardeners touted the use of Borax to treat creeping charlie. Research at the University of Wisconsin and Iowa State University have proven that it should not be used as broadleaf weed control against creeping charlie or any other weeds. It was found that even in small amounts, it is bad for the soil, providing an unfavorable growing environment for desirable plants. If you have a large area where creeping charlie has completely taken over, you may want to consider one of these solutions. One method recommended by staff at the University of Michigan is called sheet composting, or lasagna composting. Layers of organic material are placed upon newspaper or cardboard to smother the creeping charlie and give you a fresh start. In a sunny location, the University of Minnesota recommends another natural method called solarization, where a sheet of plastic over the infested area for several months raises the temperature so that the creeping charlie can no longer survive. If you prefer a chemical alternative, the University of Minnesota suggests that if your lawn is at least 50% creeping charlie, you may want to apply a non-selective herbicide containing glyphosate, like Round-Up. It will kill all the vegetation. As with all chemicals, be sure to carefully follow the instructions to safely apply it and to see when it is safe for people and pets to enter the area and when you can re-seed the area. Everyone’s situation is different, so it is important to consider all the different options for ridding your lawn and garden of creeping charlie. Everyone’s tolerance level is different, so one last thing to consider, but definitely not the least, is whether or not you can live with creeping charlie. Keeping our neighbors happy and controlling invasive weeds from spreading across the property line is important, but perhaps you have an area in your yard where you can allow creeping charlie to co-exist with you. It does provide a small benefit to pollinators, and the carpet of delicate purple flowers in the spring is a beautiful sight. Photo credits: Lisa Olson (1, 3, 4), University of Minnesota (2, 5)

< Back Planning to Promote Success in Your 2022 Vegetable Garden March is a great time to start to plan for your summer vegetable garden. Whether you’re planning your first vegetable garden or you’re an experienced vegetable gardener, there are things you can be doing to enhance the probability of a successful growing season. Linda Stein, Master Gardener Experienced gardeners review last year’s successes and failures. Some problems that you encountered may be indicative of issues that you may wish to address as you prepare for the upcoming growing season. If your vegetable plants had lush leaf growth but limited vegetables, it may be because your soil has excess nitrogen and/or inadequate phosphorus. When we experience a thaw and you can dig in your garden, you may wish to have a soil test to determine how to amend the soil to promote effective growth. Go to the University of Minnesota’s website ( https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services/lawn-garden ) for details on how to submit a sample for testing. If you have been planting the same vegetables in the same locations you may have seen poorer harvests. As you prepare for the coming year consider rotating the location of specific plants to reduce damage from insect pests, limit the development of vegetable-specific diseases and manage soil fertility. Vegetables should be considered in the following groups: root vegetables, fruit-bearing vegetables, legumes, and leafy vegetables as you rotate the location of plants. So, for example, don’t plant fruit-bearing plants such as bell peppers where tomatoes were planted last year. Instead, plant legumes, root vegetables like carrots, or leafy vegetables such as lettuce. Many vegetables can be started from seeds, planted indoors and transplanted outdoors when the weather warms. March is the appropriate time to plant broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, and cauliflower seeds indoors so they are ready for the Minnesota growing season. If you are planning your first vegetable garden, consider the following: Review your yard to find a location that receives at least 6 hours of sun. Decide which vegetables you would like to grow. Some of the easiest ones to grow include lettuce, cucumbers, green beans, summer squash, root vegetables (such as radishes and carrots), bell peppers, tomatoes, and peas. Review online listings or plant catalogs to determine the specific variety of the vegetables to plant. Make sure the plant will survive in Minnesota’s climate. Also consider the production habit of the plant. Some varieties continue producing over a prolonged period of time while others produce all their fruit over a short period of time. Develop a layout for planting. Consider traditional straight rows or square foot layouts. Consider how many plants of each vegetable to plant. Some vegetables like to be planted close together while others prefer space to allow good air flow around the plant. Plant tall plants along the northern end of our garden so they don’t shade shorter plants. Send a soil sample to the University of Minnesota to determine how you should amend the soil to promote plant health and vegetable production. (See link to the soil testing site above.) Consider March the start of your vegetable growing season and prepare for success in your 2022 garden. Photo Credit: Linda Stein (1), University of Minnesota Extension (2), Southern Foodways Alliance (3)

< Back The Enchanting World of Fairy Gardening By Mary Gadek, Dakota County Master Gardener Looking for a way to engage the child in your life with the outdoors?! Look no further… read here to learn about the fun and enchanting art of fairy gardening- a creative way of gardening with endless possibilities for the young and young at heart! Capture your child’s imagination as they create a small garden meant to attract the tiny magical beings, called garden fairies. Often found at the edge of the tended garden, garden lore says these guardians of nature are masters of disguise and appear in gardens as small animals, little creatures, or brightly colored orbs of light. Why Have Fun with Fairy Gardening? Whether you believe in garden fairies or just want to engage your child in imaginative play, the small-scale method of fairy gardening offers many benefits to the gardener, including connecting the child with nature while providing them with an immediate creative outlet. Also, fairy gardening can offer a way to teach the elements of landscape design, spacing, and proper irrigation to children. Another benefit of this type of gardening is that it enables a less physically constraining form of gardening for any age. How to Make an Enchanting Fairy Garden The most important tool of fairy gardening is your imagination ! Take some time and develop your plan or the story you want to tell (and attract fairies!) by deciding on the following gardening elements: 1. Theme: It can be anything you want, especially something to reflect a child’s current interests (e.g., princesses, farm animals, favorite movie characters). 2. Location: Determine where to locate your garden - in a container inside your home or outside, or in a small area of your garden. Add good potting soil for your plants and also, to set hardscape figures and structures. Good drainage, like providing holes in your container and the right soil mixture, ensures a long-lasting garden. 3. Plant selection: Choose plants that will grow to the right scale, or size, for a small garden. As you search for the right plants, consider contrasting or complementary colors and shapes of plants that best fit your theme. Here are some resources to help you choose the right plants: https://www.usbg.gov/fairy-gardens https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/miniature-gardens-a-story-to-tell/ 4. Accessorize: Start by “shopping” around your house and garden to find items that match your plan and can shape the story of your fairy garden. Suggestions: Acorns, pine cones, seeds, stones, shells, small branches, leaves, bottle caps, pipe cleaners, straws, discarded toys or parts of toys, and unused costume jewelry or fish tank stones. Craft stores have endless possibilities, too. To pursue an even more magical journey when creating your fairy garden, include the garden attributes that fairies prefer. Fairies enjoy a place to hide, like under a big leaf or behind a smaller rock. Look for small, colorful, shiny, fragrant, or soft items that will attract your neighborhood fairies. Use small ornaments or sparkly treasures. Incorporate fragrant plants (like lavender), choose plants with soft leaves, like lamb ears, or find pods (like milkweed), for a fairy to sleep on. Now you are ready to create your fairy garden! Once completed, feel free to add or change the garden as your child wants, to fully express their imagination (or even try to attract a fairy to live in their garden). As time passes, encourage your child to visit their fairy garden and leave little gifts of nature or special trinkets for the fairies. Here are some examples of fairy gardens found in Dakota County, Minnesota: To further enhance your fairy gardening experience, read: How To Catch a Garden Fairy, by Alice Walstead, a delightful read-aloud for younger elementary-aged children, which allows your child’s imagination to grow and see how making a fairy garden can entice a fairy into your garden! Borrow from the Dakota County Library: ISBN: 9781728263205 Or Buy: https://www.amazon.com/How-Catch-Garden-Fairy-Springtime/dp/1728263204 Reference: (University of Wisconsin-Madison, Extension, https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/blossom-end-rot/ ) Photo Credits: Mary Gadek (1,3,4,5), Marie Smith (2,6)