< Back Harvesting Seeds for Native Prairie Restoration Marie Stolte, Master Gardener Dakota County Parks and Recreation is restoring the county’s native prairies. The goal is to grow the same types of plants that have successfully supported local insects, mammals, and birds for thousands of years. Prairie restoration rebuilds prairies by planting prairie seeds in areas that have changed to another land use. This article explains the how and why of native prairie restoration through the experience of Master Gardeners in Dakota County. Learn how you, too, can help wildlife and the environment by developing your own “pocket prairie” garden. Dakota County Parks and Recreation is attempting to restore the county’s native prairies. The goal is to grow the same types of plants that have successfully supported local insects, mammals, and birds for thousands of years. Prairie restoration rebuilds prairies by planting prairie seeds in areas that have changed to another land use. The science of prairie restoration has evolved over the last century as more is learned about how to do so effectively. Why should we be interested in prairie restoration? This excerpt from the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources explains why: [It] buffers and creates connections between isolated native prairie remnants, thereby making the larger prairie landscape more resilient to changing environmental conditions including climate change, pesticides, and invasive species [Helps to “sequester carbon,” (stabilizing carbon in the ground rather than in the atmosphere] Promotes water infiltration and storage (recharges groundwater, flood control, reduces erosion and nutrient runoff) Provides places for people to explore and learn about prairies Provides habitat for a variety of animals, from deer to damselflies Connects people—physically, intellectually, emotionally, and spiritually—with prairie's past, present, and future Minnesota Department of Natural Resources. In Dakota County, prairie restoration is done by collecting and using native seeds from its own “remnant prairies” (true native prairies) (or the seeds of those plants’ descendants) or buys native seeds from within 150 miles of Dakota County. “Restored native prairies” are prairies that have been restored with seeds from true native prairies or those plants’ descendants. Recently, Sam Talbot, a University of Minnesota Extension Educator, met with Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers (DCMGVs) to collect native plant seeds from “restored prairies.” One group met at Lebanon Hills Regional Park and the other, at Whitetail Woods Regional Park. Note - seed collectors should always have permission before collecting seeds from any site. The purpose of this particular outing was to collect seed for various uses by the DCMGV. The seeds from these older restored prairies are not used as a source for new restorations so DCMGV was allowed to collect them. Some of the gathered seeds would be cleaned and packaged, then placed in the free Seed Library at Farmington Library for any county resident to grow . The rest of the seeds will be grown in individual DCMGV homes over the winter and sold at the group’s May Plant Sale. Proceeds from the sale support 30 of DCMGV’s programs, including children’s and community gardens throughout the county; raingardens created in conjunction with the City of Mendota Heights; and a new vegetable garden grown cooperatively with the County Juvenile Detention Facility in Hastings. In the fall, it is much more difficult to identify plants, especially after the flowers (and sometimes, the leaves) have faded and dried. And when many species of plants fill a prairie, it helps to know how high to look and what to look for. On this day, Sam had arrived earlier and cut stems to show the seed-bearing structures with leaves and seed heads. Each stem stood in its own bucket, along with an envelope with the species name. He answered questions about plant height and where they might be found in the vast prairie, then explained that no more than one third of the seeds on each plant should be gathered. The rest would feed wildlife over winter or fall and potentially reseed. Seed shapes and sizes differ wildly. Cup Plant’s seeds are roughly triangular and black with a brown ring around the edge; they are about an eighth of the size of a dime. Prairie Cinquefoil’s are tiny as sesame seeds and white, with multiple capsules per stem. Wild Bergamot’s almost invisible brown seeds sit loosely in hollow tubes that are packed together on a single seed head, just waiting for the wind to rustle and spread them. With a better understanding of what they were looking for, the DCMGVs headed out into the prairie. Each volunteer gathered one type of seed in a bucket, then took a different bucket to collect. At the end of the evening, buckets were emptied into the envelopes. Sam brought all of the seeds to Lebanon Hills to dry. In winter, he will host another DCMGV event to clean those seeds, removing chaff, leaving only the seeds for planting. “These events were such a great way to connect the Master Gardeners with the County’s natural resources,” Sam said, “and to explore our restored prairies through a completely different lens. I’m excited to continue our native plant conversations this winter as we discuss the next steps in the propagation process.” You also have a role to play in restoring native prairies and improving our environment. You can plant a "pocket prairie" in your yard. Even small prairie gardens can provide habitat for pollinators and other wildlife and give you the joy of a beautiful natural landscape. Each month, this publication has been and will continue to feature native plants that you can grow in your garden. To learn more about native prairies and native gardening, go the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources site noted above. Photo credits: Robert Hatlevig (1, 2, 3)

< Back Minnesota’s State Muffin and Its Star Ingredient: The Blueberry Blueberry season may be over this year, but as you reflect on this past year and contemplate what to plant next year, a beverage with a nice, big, blueberry muffin may inspire your garden plans. Is your mouth watering yet? Read about the blueberry muffin, some interesting information about growing and picking blueberries in Minnesota, and you’ll also find a couple of bonus recipes to try this winter! By Lisa Olson, Master Gardener All 50 states have state symbols - some more than others. (Looking at you, Texas, with at least 70 state symbols!) Only three states, however, have a muffin symbol. New York chose the apple muffin, Massachusetts has the corn muffin, and in 1987 a group of elementary students from Carlton, Minnesota, near Duluth, began their quest to secure the blueberry muffin as the Minnesota state muffin. It was really an exercise in learning about the legislative process. And educational it was. Their first assignment was to choose the muffin flavor that best represented Minnesota. Blueberry was the students’ muffin of choice - fitting, since blueberries are grown across the state. After multiple trips to the capitol during the next session to watch the process of passing bills, the blueberry muffin eventually made its way through in 1988. Perhaps it helped that the “Blueberry Muffin Gang” from Carlton brought muffins for all the legislators on one of their trips in order to help their cause. Minnesota is home to two native blueberry plants: lowbush ( Vaccinium angustifolium ) and velvetleaf ( V. myrtilloides ). They are mostly found in the northeast part of the state, but they can be found across the state from the northwest to the far southeast corner as well. Wild blueberries are generally much smaller than cultivated blueberries so growing blueberries commercially in Minnesota was a challenge because of the cold climate. That changed when the University of Minnesota began researching and breeding cold-hardy, large-fruited cultivars in the 1960’s. Larger berries, taller plants making picking the fruit easier, and breeding for harvesting over a longer season have all greatly improved the commercial production and also provided home growers with more varieties to choose from. The University of Minnesota even cultivated a pink variety. Yes, a pink blueberry! If you are interested in growing blueberries at your home, the University of Minnesota is a great resource to help you select the right plant for your conditions, and for planting and maintaining tips. Here are some quick facts to get you started: Not interested in growing your own? You can still pick your own. There are numerous pick-your-own farms in Minnesota. If you are feeling a little more adventurous, you can pick wild blueberries. Minnesota state parks, Superior National Forest lands, state forest lands, and the Boundary Waters Canoe Area all actually allow berry picking for personal consumption. If you pick an abundance, they freeze well so you can enjoy them all year. Here are a couple of recipes to enjoy. Even though blueberry picking season in Minnesota ends in July or August, blueberry muffins are always in season. The muffin recipe is the official state muffin recipe from the Minnesota Secretary of State website. The pie recipe is especially good for fall and winter occasions with cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice. You will need some fresh blueberries, so thankfully it is always blueberry season somewhere in the world! The combination of fresh and cooked berries make this pie unique and especially delicious. Enjoy! Blueberry Muffin Recipe By Shari Baker, Gunflint Pines Resort 2 c. Flour ½ c. Sugar 1 T. Baking powder ½ t. Salt 1 T. Orange zest (grated peel) 1 c. Blueberries (fresh, dried, or frozen—Do not thaw or rehydrate) 1 c. White Chocolate Chips (*optional, but great!) 1-¼ c. Buttermilk 1 Egg ½ t. Vanilla Sugar in the Raw (large-grain brown sugar) Preheat oven to 425F. Mix buttermilk, egg, and vanilla; set aside. Mix dry ingredients, orange zest, blueberries, and white chocolate chips. Make well in center, pour in liquid mixture, and stir lightly just until mixed. Spoon into lined or greased muffin tins. Top with sugar in the raw, and bake for 20 to 22 minutes. Makes a “baker’s dozen”. New England Blueberry Pie 4 c. fresh blueberries ½ c. sugar ½ c. brown sugar, packed 1 Tbsp. lemon juice ¼ tsp. allspice ¼ tsp. cinnamon ⅛ tsp. nutmeg ¼ tsp. salt 1 8-9” baked pie shell In a saucepan, combine 2 c. berries with sugar, flour, butter, lemon juice, and all the spices and salt. Cook over low heat to a boil. Cook for 5 minutes or until thick. Cool. When cool, add the remaining 2 c. of blueberries. Transfer all of the blueberry mixture into the cooled pie shell. Chill pie. Serve with whipped cream. Resources: https://www.startribune.com/minnesota-symbols-blueberry-muffin-carlton-south-terrace/600172953/ https://www.dnr.state.mn.us/mcvmagazine/issues/2023/jul-aug/bucket.html https://mnhardy.umn.edu/blueberries https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-blueberries-home-garden#staking-and-support-19061 https://www.sos.state.mn.us/about-minnesota/state-symbols/state-muffin-blueberry/ https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/commercial-blueberry-production-minnesota-and-wisconsin Photo credits: Minnesota Secretary of State (1), Courtesy of University of Minnesota (2), University of Minnesota Extension (3)

< Back January, A Perfect Time to Re-Design Your Landscape By Janelle Rietz-Kamenar, Master Gardener When January brings us huge snowdrifts and blustery winds do you think of Spring? Yes, it’s the perfect time to be thinking about your flower and vegetable gardens and begin making plans for re-designing your landscape. If you have these thoughts, then click on the link to learn more about basic landscape design concepts and current 2024 trends in landscaping. Landscape design is so much more than picking out the right plants for a given area. It can be so overwhelming at first that many of us put it off and live with our overgrown jungle that was landscaped 20 years ago. But the first step to landscape design is to come up with a comprehensive plan that can be tackled over time making it easier for Do-It-Yourselfers. There are many books written about landscape design but I hope to address some of the basic concepts in this short article. There are five parts to a sustainable design: 1) Functional; 2) Maintainable; 3) Environmentally Sound; 4) Cost Effective; and 5) Visually Pleasing. 1) Functional: What do you need the space to do for you. Examples include: play area for children, garden area, kitchen patio, boat, trash, or firewood storage, utilities, dog kennels, and access to the front and backyard are just a few examples of function that you should consider. 2) Maintainable : Similar to function, maintainable addresses planning for mowing areas so you don’t have to use a trimmer, creating a screen planting to provide privacy, and planning for snow storage and ice/sand/salt usage. How large a space can you take care of. Maintenance is a huge consideration in landscape design. 3) Environmentally Sound: Addresses the need to reduce the amount of fertilizer, pesticides, equipment, water, and labor usage. Rain gardens, plants that require limited mowing and pruning, and eliminating invasive plant species are just a few examples. 4) Cost Effective: You must not only factor in the initial cost of the project but also, the cost of annual maintenance in your design both in materials as well as labor. 5) Visually Pleasing: Yes, of course it needs to look good. This consideration also gets involved with plant selection, what gardeners love doing the most. Planting the right plant that will adapt to the light, water, and soil conditions is imperative in landscape design. While the basic concepts of landscape design remain consistent year over year, design elements do change over time. Below I have listed 5 of the 10 2024 Garden Design trends by GardenDesign.com . These 5 trends seemed to be consistent but not limited to other trend articles that I reviewed: 1) “Enhancing Your Garden with Edimentals” : Edimentals are plants that usually live more than one year such as shrubs, perennials, and trees. Examples include daylilies, currants, gooseberries, elderberries, fennel and asparagus. Including annual edible plants such as kale, rainbow chard, and nasturtiums can also be considered. 2) “Exploring Naturalistic Planting & the New Perennial Movement” : This consists of primarily native plants with a less manicured look to mirror nature, but it doesn’t have to been completely unmanicured. The focus is on a blend of plants that invite pollinators and wildlife. (Read Jim Lakin’s monthly Garden Buzz articles on “native” plants for ideas about plants that are appropriate for Minnesota gardens.) 3) “Preserving Every Drop with Eco-Friendly Rain Gardens” : Yes, establishing a rain garden to limit water runoff into sewers. 4) “Learning to Love Bugs”: Reducing the use of pesticides is the trend here. Becoming more tolerant of bugs and understanding that there are beneficial insects. Note, certain bugs are attracted to specific species (i.e. monarch butterfly and milkweed, rusty patched bumble bees like lupines, asters, bee balm, native prairie plants, and spring ephemerals). But of course, there are bugs that are on the invasive list such as jumping worms, pine bark beetle, and lantern fly. 5) “Adapting and Growing with a Changing Climate” : In the last few months, the USDA published a new plant zone map. Many areas across the nation and in our neck of the woods have become hotter. Adapting for this change in your plant selection process is imperative as you look to designing your future landscape. I hope you can enjoy planning, prepping, and planting your new garden bed(s) in the next few months. Check out our website resources for many articles on the topics discussed above. And spend your January dreaming and planning for your beautiful 2024 garden. Resources: Creating a Home Landscape, You Can Love & Enjoy/Sustainable Landscape Design Basics for Homeowner, Minnesota Landscape Arboretum Workshop, James B. Calkins, Ph. D, 2022. GardenDesign.com , Research Garden Design, 2024 Trends in Garden Design by Rebecca Sweet, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service ( fws.gov ) Rusty Patched Bumble Bee https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov ; USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map Photo credits: www.flickr.com (1,3), gartenideenherbst.blogspot.com/All Creative Commons (2)

< Back Know Your Resources “Hey, Siri, what’s the best kind of mulch for my garden?” This is a question often overheard in a plant center from someone trying to make a selection for their yard. And while Siri can give some options, one has to doubt the accuracy of the reply. Questionable advice can always be found somewhere, whether that’s from artificial intelligence or your neighbor’s second cousin on Facebook, but surely there’s a better way to get the most accurate and helpful answers! This article explains how you can find answers to many of your gardening questions from experts and based on research. Read on to learn how to find reliable answers to your gardening questions. Valerie Rogotzke, Dakota County Master Gardener For Dakota County gardeners, let’s get better acquainted with two websites: the U of MN Extension site and our Dakota County Master Gardener site. You can bookmark these on your phone, computer, or tablet—and I encourage anyone to do so. You can find hundreds of helpful articles, guides, books, pamphlets, and more, all available for free! Everything is backed by scientific research and all specific to our growing zone and climate. U of MN EXTENSION SITE: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden From this start page, you see several specific guides to get started in the garden and solve common problems. How-To Guides Growing Guides (starting a garden, composting, fertilizing, hydroponics, houseplants, and more) Pollinator Guides Growing Safe Food Soil and Nutrient Health (including information on how to get your soil tested to learn which fertilizers are best for it ) Watering Guides Landscape design Lawn Care (with calendars for when to seed, mow, and more) Find Plants Flowers (annuals, perennials, native flowers) Fruit Houseplants Native Plants Trees and Shrubs Vegetables Weeds (identify weeds and learn control strategies) What’s wrong with my plant? This helps you diagnose problems in the yard and garden caused by insects, diseases, or other issues. If, for example, your eggplants look strange in the vegetable garden this summer, look up eggplants in this guide to learn what the issue is and solve the problem going forward. Weeds Identify the weed in your lawn and find the best way to eradicate or manage it. Dakota County Master Gardener Volunteers : https://www.dakotamastergardeners.org/ On our local Dakota County Master Gardener website, you’ll find a calendar of local events as well as updates on our local projects and other gardening resources. You will also find dozens of articles on a variety of gardening topics (most articles previously found in the Garden Buzz monthly newsletter). You will find articles on what you might be doing in your garden monthly, good gardening tips, features on native and perennial plants and vegetables; recipes using vegetables or fruits from your garden, and tips to deal with problems in or related to your garden. There is a search box to help you find articles by topic. There is also a link to subscribe to our Garden Buzz newsletter. This is a great supplement to the statewide website. Information on Let’s Get Growing (our spring gardening expo) and the Annual Plant Sale in May is there, as well as a list of the farmers’ markets where our Master Gardener Volunteers will be, answering questions and ready to discuss home gardens with all who stop by. Other resources of note: Gardening Projects with Children This section has dozens of project ideas to do with the kid gardeners in your life! Projects are available for all seasons and incorporate science learning and art. Gardening Book Club Recommendations Looking for a book to read with your gardening club? We’ve got you covered with dozens of book reviews on horticultural topics. Finally, a last way to get information on gardening and the Dakota County Master Gardener projects going on all around you is to follow us on Facebook and Instagram . When the U of MN offers free webinars on pollinators or when a garden tour in our area pops up, we’ll be sure to let you know! Photo credits: Photo 1 for newsletter: Credit Paul Wood Photo 2, credit: U of M Extension

< Back Trifecta of Small Fruits Ride along with Margie Blare as she provides winning advice about how to grow “small fruits” - strawberries, raspberries and blueberries - in an entertaining, tongue-in-cheek style. Marjory Blare, Master Gardener Excitement at the Garden Track! Learn how to beat the odds and win the small fruits (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries) race in your garden. 1st race: Maiden Race - Track Prep All tracks need full sun, good drainage and air circulation. Test soils before planting. Soil pH needs: Strawberry needs a soil pH of 6-7.0 Raspberry needs 5.5-6.5 pH Blueberry needs 4.0-5.0 pH 2nd race: Planting Stakes Race 3rd race: Maintenance Claiming Race 4th race: The Harvest Home Derby Strawberry out of Hija X Deckard (0.5” to 6”) Jockeys: Ever Bearing (spring and fall harvest), June Bearing (spring harvest) and Day Neutral (all season). Racing strategies: Remove flowers during year one to grow a better root system. Plant new crowns above soil level 12-18” apart. Runners should be pruned; leave enough daughter plants to replace diseased, non-productive crowns or plants older than four. Change track location every 4 years to stop build-up of diseases and insects. Renovate the bed after harvest. New leaves will re-grow quickly. Remove last year's mulch, add fresh mulch. Strawberry wins The Harvest Home Derby around 2-4 years-old. Refrigerate if not using immediately. Discard berries that are bird/insect damaged or diseased. Raspberry out of Hedgehog X Shillelagh (2'-5') Jockeys: Primocane Fall-Bearing (fall harvest),and Floricane Ever-Bearing (spring and fall harvest). Racing strategies: Raspberries need to be cross-tied in order to win the Harvest Home Derby. Posts and wires work well. In early spring, plant red and yellow raspberries about 2-3' apart, spreading the roots. Rows wider than 12” impede harvesting. Black and purple raspberries form 'hills' with primocanes sprouting from the crown. Plant in rows four feet apart. Feed Raspberry frequently. Annual pruning increases productivity and reduces disease. 2-3” of mulch controls weeds and conserves moisture. Mosquito netting can exclude pests, but can also exclude pollinators. Use support and pruning to control the spread of black and purple varieties; when arching canes touch the ground, they root. At two years, Raspberry will win The Home Harvest Derby as the berries develop full color. Raspberry keeps 2-3 days in the refrigerator. Pick berries daily, with clean hands; afterward, pick all uneatable berries and dispose of them. Blueberry out of Boreal X Peewee (4”-12') Jockeys: Northern Highbush (up to 12'), Half-bush (3-4'), Low bush (2-3'), Dwarf (1-2') Racing Strategies: Add amendments before planting. Use a raised bed or 'hill' your Blueberry. Blueberry needs a pollinator of a different variety to win the Harvest Home Derby. Dig a hole twice the size of the pots your blueberries came in. Loosen the roots and spread as much as possible. Remove flowers during year one to grow a better root system. Roots are shallow; keep the water bucket handy! Acidify your water with 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 gallon of water. Mulch to retain moisture; keeping it 6” away from the trunks. Replace mulch annually to control diseases. Animals can be excluded with appropriate height fencing. Insects and birds can be mostly excluded with mosquito netting, (except during flowering). Blueberries can be early, mid or late season producers. Blueberry will start winning races in 2-4 years. He wins The Harvest Home Derby by year. He may take 8 years to reach full maturity. For more information on growing these and other fruits go to the University of Minnesota Extension Yard and Garden website and search “Growing [insert fruit] in the Home Garden.” Photo Credit: www.flickr.com (1) & University of Minnesota Extension (2,3)

< Back DIY Suet/Seed Feeders for our Feathered Friends By BJ Hansell, Master Gardener As I write this, it’s nearly Halloween. Outside there is a flurry of activity. A multitude of birds including blue jays, cardinals, woodpeckers (both hairy & downy), house and gold finches, juncos, and my absolute favorites - chickadees, are flitting about. They voraciously attack and consume seeds and nuts in preparation for the rapidly approaching winter. Read this article to see how you and the child in your life can help our feathered friends. I have quite a variety of seeds, nuts, and suet feeders. But in December the kids are getting restless for something to do. The ever popular “I’m bored,” resonates through the house. I’m eager to have them take a break from screen time. How about crafting homemade bird feeders? There are several hands-on options for nearly any age to show their creativity. The projects tend to be a bit messy. But hey, when you’re a kid messy is GOOD. While we work on the feeders, we can discuss: o the different birds that hang out in the yard, o how to identify them o what they prefer to eat o where they sleep & seek shelter from the weather For example: About black-capped chickadees : o Males & Females look the same; a small gray bird with a black cap and throat patch. Tan sides & belly; white chest; small white wing marks. o Small Pointy beak o Seeds black oil sunflower, safflower; peanuts; mealworms o Cavity dweller, found in forests, woodlots, backyard nest box The recipes, supplies and instructions for making these birdfeeders appear at each of the listed sites. Song bird seed mix is available in most any grocery or home improvement store. Traditionally suet is made from rendered animal fat. The recipes here substitute shortening (Audubon) and gelatin (NWF). The pine cone feeders use peanut butter (Cornell). 1- Audubon Recipe , Materials are listed below the Video Demonstration: 2- NWF: Suet Ornaments (can use the Audubon Recipe): 3- Cornell Lab: Pine Cone Feeders DO NOT forget a source of water. Bon Appé-TWEET! Credit: https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Black-capped_Chickadee/overview# Photo credits: www.midgetmomma.com (All Creative Commons) (1), www.flickr.com (All Creative Commons) (2,3)

< Back Ethnic Heritage Food Joy Johnson, Master Gardener With the onset of cold weather, embrace your comfort food roots. Joy Johnson shares two of her family’s comfort recipes. Try them and they may become your new comfort food recipes. With the onset of cold weather, my thoughts and appetite go back to the “good old days” when I was a kid. The foods my mother, grandmother and aunts prepared always seemed to be just what I needed. Today we call that ‘comfort food’, going back to what made you feel good as a kid. Thinking back to those wonderful meals, I realize that I have a divided gastronomic family. Half of it is Hungarian and half of it is German. I have terrific recipes from both sides of the family. One year we grew over 30 cabbages. My young daughter and her friend were having such a fun time planting, that I just let them keep going and didn’t realize what I huge harvest we’d have. We fermented over 30 quarts of sauerkraut that year. The soup recipe below is a delicious one to try if you have homemade sauerkraut. It works well with the store-bought kind too. I think it’s fun to try new recipes, especially if they are someone else’s ‘tried and true’ ones, because then you know they’ve been taste tested and honed to perfection over the years. Here are two family tested recipes, one from my Hungarian side and one from my German side. Hmmm, it’s kind of funny, but my mom started serving them both at the same meal, with additional Hungarian dishes on the side. That’s now our newish family tradition, a delicious mixture in one comforting and very satisfying meal. Sauerkraut Soup (from the German side) 1 quart sauerkraut; rinse, squeeze, chop 1 pound Polska Kolbasi sausage ½ cup rice (I use brown rice) Brown flour for thickening (2/3 cup flour toasted in 3 tablespoons butter. Stir constantly until flour turns golden brown) 1 teaspoon caraway seed Cut sausage into bit size slices, cover with water and cook a few minutes to remove fat. Remove slices from water, save water, refrigerate so fat will harden. Remove hardened fat from water and discard. Add sauerkraut and caraway seeds to this water, cook about 15 minutes, add sausage slices, cook 10 minutes, whisk water into the browned flour in a separate bowl until smooth, add a little of this to the soup, add rice. Cook slowly until the rice is done. DON’T add all the browned flour mix at once, see how it thickens, it varies depending on how much water you started with. Bobyka (from the Hungarian side) Take any white bread recipe (or frozen bread dough works). Take a portion of the dough, place in palms of your hands, rubbing back and forth, make it like a rope about a half inch in diameter. Cut into 1-inch pieces and roll them into balls in the palm of your hand. Place on a greased cookie sheet (or cover it with parchment paper). Bake until golden brown at 375 degrees for 15-18 minutes. Immerse them in boiling water for just a few minutes ‘til softened, not too long or they will fall apart. Melt ¼ cup butter, add dough balls (bobykas), add about 1 tablespoon ground poppyseed and about 1 tablespoon honey. Serve warm. They taste like little breadsticks.

< Back Pumpkins that will “Melt” Your Heart Julie Henrichs, Dakota County Master Gardener Intern An Amazing Pumpkin Creation for all ages! Are you looking for a fun way to make a unique and stunning looking pumpkin for Fall, but would prefer not to carve one? We have a simple decorative pumpkin idea that takes only a pumpkin of any size, shape or color (faux or real), a handful of broken crayons, a permanent marker, tacky glue, a hairdryer and don’t forget the optional googly eyes. Read on to learn how to make this adorable pumpkin craft for Fall that will “Melt” your heart. Supplies Needed for (1) Pumpkin Creation: Pumpkin - faux or real - any size, any shape - any color (colors really stand out on white pumpkins) 1 bottle of glue (tacky glue is best) Crayon pieces - paper peeled off Surface Coverings as crayons splatter when heated Googly Eyes (optional - size appropriate for pumpkin) Permanent Markers (optional - if choose to draw face on the pumpkin) Hairdryer (to be used under adult supervision) Let’s Get Set: Prepare work surface by covering with cardboard, tablecloth or similar covering because crayons splatter as they melt. Choose the crayon colors randomly or choose crayons to form a pattern of colors. Unwrap all crayon pieces that you plan to use. Kids usually enjoy unwrapping the crayons. On the top of the pumpkin (near stem) place several drops or light strips of glue and then place the crayons you have chosen on the glue. Crayons should be facing up and down. Let the crayons set in place before beginning the melting process. The more crayons used will result in more of the pumpkin being covered. Optional: Choose googly eyes and glue onto the pumpkin or use the permanent marker to draw a face on the pumpkin before melting the crayons. Let’s Get Melting: (adult supervision is required) Once the crayons are set in the glue, you are ready to begin the melting process. Make sure that the pumpkin is set on a sturdy and covered surface Have an adult prepare the hairdryer. Depending on the age of the child, additional adult supervision will be needed or the adult may need to run the hairdryer Turn on the hairdryer and point the hairdryer toward the crayons. The crayons will slowly melt and run down the side of the pumpkin. Caution: crayons may splatter while melting Please remember to only run your hairdryer for a short time to let it cool down and do not touch the hairdryer because it will be hot. Additional crayons can be added to provide various dimensions on the pumpkin. Make sure to let your Pumpkin creation cool. (If you set it in the sun or in a bright area place it on a plate or cloth to prevent damage to any surface.) Enjoy your creation through the Fall Season. If you used a faux pumpkin, then you can carefully pack away your creation for next Fall. Photo Credit: platein28.com/fun-with-melting-crayons-on-pumpkins ( https://platein28.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/Melted-crayon-pumpkin-1-1.jpg ) (1), rawpixel.com/search/crayons?page (creative commons) (2), pexels.com/photo/orange-pumpkin-on-hay-field (creative commons) (3), the idearoom.net/halloween-crafts-for-kids (4)

< Back Jicama – Not Just in the South Anymore What starchy, tuberous vegetable has the refreshing crispness of a fresh apple, abundant nutrients and fiber, all with a deliciously low glycemic index? It’s the unassuming, turnip-shaped jicama (pronounced híh-ka-ma), sometimes called “Mexican potato” or “yam bean.” Read on to learn more about this interesting vegetable and a pleasant surprise for Minnesota gardeners. Anita Oakman, Dakota County Master Gardener The jicama plant belongs to the genus Pachyrhizus and is a native of Central and South America. It has been a cultivated vegetable there and in southeast Asia for hundreds of years. The seeds, which range in color from pale to dark brown, have also been cultivated for their high content of rotenone, a toxin used as a pesticide, an insecticide, and a piscicide (fish killer). (Remember the 1950’s B-movie horror flick “Creature from the Black Lagoon”?) In fact, nearly all parts of the jicama plant - its bluish green vining foliage, beautiful bluish purple and white flowers, the subsequent lime green seed pods, and even the light brown peel of the tuber - are known to contain rotenone and should not be eaten. The only safely edible part is the white flesh of the tuber. From seed to harvest, the length of maturity for jicama is 4-9 months. After transplanting seedlings 12 inches apart in well-drained loamy to sandy soil warmed to at least 70 degrees, the plant can be trained up a trellis and fed a low nitrogen, high phosphorus and potassium fertilizer monthly to keep it thriving. For the best root production, flowers should be removed at an early stage. As with nearly any root vegetable, it’s possible for the curious gardener to check on the size of the growing tubers by pulling soil away temporarily. They should be covered up though, to resume growth. Jicama tubers must be allowed to remain in the garden as long as possible, however, the plants will not tolerate frost. Record late season warmth has produced the largest and heaviest yields for commercially grown jicama. So, why feature a vegetable whose digs (pun intended) are in the subtropics? Why tempt Minnesotans with a food item they can find only in a grocery store and not in their own backyard gardens? Wonder no more - jicama seeds can now be found locally and grown locally! Pachyrhizus erosus is a cultivar that produces a smaller root but has the shortest maturity of approximately 150 days. By starting seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost and continuing with the above growing instructions, it is possible to produce jicama tubers of your very own. Photo Credits: Photo 1, www.ourfood.nl (All Creative Commons) Photo 2, Powo.science.kew.org (All Creative Commons)

< Back Rose Mallow - A Rose of the North Jim Lakin, MD, Master Gardener Have a riverbank, marsh, or rain garden to manage? Consider adding the lovely, long-blooming Rose Mallow. This article will tell you why and how. Hibiscus lasiocarpos As Juliet observed of her beloved Romeo, “What’s in a name? That which we call a rose by any other name would smell as sweet.” We may then ask, “Would that which we call a rose be less beautiful if it is not?” To this I would unhesitatingly say, “Yes in the case of the rose mallow”. H. lasiocarpos and H. moscheutos are nearly identical members of the mallow family (Malvaceae). They are native to most of the Lower Midwest and northward to areas around Lakes Michigan and Erie. Their closely related cousin, the somewhat more cold-tolerant Halberd-leaved rose mallow ( H. laevis ) is native to Southeast Minnesota and up the Missouri River Valley. The rose mallows are hardy through zones 4-9. These perennials are closely related to the much-prized tropical hibiscus. Halberd-leaved rose mallow As you might expect, this gorgeous plant has been hybridized into a large number of attractive cultivars available at your local nursery. The value of these cultivars to our pollinators remains to be determined. There is no question, however that the three native species are key players in the ecological web of the Northern Midwest. They are very nectar and pollen rich, being great additions to a pollinator garden. Halberd-leaved rose mallow The rose mallows are essentially a wetlands plant found around lakes and rivers. They may even be seen growing in standing water. They do well though in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. If they are in a bed, remember to water them during dry, mid-summer weather. They eventually grow to about five feet so you should keep that in mind if inserting them into a border garden. They do well as a backdrop to sun loving ground covers. Rose mallow is slow to emerge from dormancy but once in gear it is a rapid grower, putting on as much as an inch per day. The blooms are quite showy, appearing from July to September so you would do well to mix them with earlier blooming perennials such as Jacob’s Ladder or creeping phlox. The flowers are from three to five inches across with a red center “eye” from which the stamen protrudes. Flower petals may vary from white to shades of pink. Once established, application of a slow-release fertilizer in the spring can enhance growth. While you are at it, pruning back the old growth to about six inches will help to make way for the new foliage. Deadheading usually is not necessary. Rose mallow winters over pretty well although putting a couple of inches of mulch over the plants in the fall will reduce the chance of winter kill. So, if you have a riverbank, marsh or rain garden to plant, you would do well to incorporate the lovely rose mallow. Photo Credit: Taylor Creek Nursery (1,2,3)

< Back Growing Ginger Carole Dunn, Master Gardener Growing ginger is relatively easy, and it can be grown both indoors and outdoors. Read this article to learn the steps to grow ginger successfully. Growing ginger is relatively easy, and it can be grown both indoors and outdoors. Here are the steps to grow ginger: Choose the right ginger: You can buy ginger roots from the grocery store or garden center. Look for pieces that are plump, with firm skin, and have several eye buds, which are small yellowish tips on the surface of the ginger. Prepare the soil: Ginger prefers well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Add compost or well-rotted manure to the soil to improve fertility and drainage. Plant the ginger: Cut the ginger into small pieces, making sure each piece has at least one eye bud. Plant each piece about 2 inches deep, with the eye facing up, and space them about 6 inches apart. Water regularly: Ginger needs to be watered regularly, but make sure not to overwater it as it can cause the root to rot. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Provide warm temperatures: Ginger grows best in warm temperatures. Ideally, the temperature should be between 70 - 80 °F during the day and 60 -70°F at night. Provide shaded light: Ginger prefers partial shade and indirect sunlight. If growing indoors, place the ginger in a bright room with indirect sunlight. Harvest ginger: Ginger takes about 8 – 10 months to mature. Once the stems begin to turn yellow and die, it is time to harvest. Carefully dig up the ginger roots without damaging them. By following these steps, you can grow delicious ginger at home! Photo Credit: www.flavorexplosions.com (all creative commons)

< Back Enhance Your Home with Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata) Mary Barnidge, Master Gardener Enhance your home’s curb appeal and enrobe it in fall color by growing Boston Ivy on your home or patio. Boston Ivy is easy to grow, requires little maintenance, and provides lush green color in the Spring and Summer turning to vivid reddish-purple in the Fall. Enhance your home’s curb appeal and enrobe it in fall color by growing Boston Ivy on your home or patio. Boston Ivy is a vine that is easy to grow, requires little maintenance, and provides lush green color in the Spring and Summer turning to vivid reddish-purple in the Fall. It provides a unique old world vibe to celebrate the change in season, with no additional effort by you! Aside from saving money on seasonal decorating, Boston Ivy can also be used to cover up an outdated brick façade on your home – which is much more affordable than switching out the brick itself. If you desire a little more privacy or shade on your deck or patio, Boston Ivy can also be grown in a pot and trained to spread across a deck railing, fence, or pergola, just like a screen. Boston Ivy is very versatile and can be grown as a ground cover to provide a uniform look to a garden or wooded area or used for erosion control on a slope. Hardiness Zone Boston Ivy is native to Asia, Korea, Japan and eastern China, but grows well in US Zones 4-8 How to Grow P refers Sun and Part Shade Water well until established then water periodically. Prefers average to dry well-drained soil. Vine grows best on Eastern or Northern facings walls, but grows well on Western Walls too. T olerant of a wide range of soil types and urban pollution. Fast growing and can climb 30 to 40 feet Provides berries for birds in the Fall. Vine grows and travels via small “sucker disks” which can easily be pulled down off wall. May cause some speckling on painted siding or trim. Trim back undesired growth using a scissors periodically throughout growth season (e.g. around windows, doors, roofing, etc.) For more information go to University of Minnesota Extension: https://trees.umn.edu/boston-ivy-parthenocissus-tricuspidata References: Monrovia.com Yates.co.nz Photo credits: Yates.co.nz (1), Doreen Wynja (2, 3), Mary Barnidge (4)